Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

HomeDirections for Frosting › Rose Coloring

Rose Coloring

Mix together one-fourth ounce each of powdered alum and cream tartar, one ounce powdered cochineal, four ounces loaf-sugar, and a salt-spoon soda. Boil ten minutes in a pint pure soft water; when cool bottle and cork for use. This is used for jellies, cake, ice-cream, etc.- Mrs W. E. H., Minneapolis.

For the Modern Kitchen

A homemade liquid food colour, made by extracting carmine from dried cochineal and fixing the shade with acid, alum and a pinch of alkali. The chemistry is the whole point of the recipe, and it is worth understanding before you start.

A Little History

Before coal-tar dyes reached the domestic kitchen, cochineal was the colour of anything meant to be pink: blancmange, ice cream, sugar icing, and the red-tinted jellies that mattered so much to a Victorian table. The insects were harvested from prickly pear cactus in Mexico and Central America and had been a major colonial export since the sixteenth century, valuable enough that Spain guarded the source for generations. A recipe like this reads half like a prescription: these had been dye-house materials that a careful housekeeper borrowed for the pantry. Buckeye Cookery (1877, and much reprinted) includes it because tinted icing was the ordinary occasion for wanting rose colour. Commercial synthetic food colours displaced homemade cochineal extract over the following decades, though carmine itself never disappeared and is still listed on plenty of modern labels.

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