Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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TO CLEAN BEEF TRIPE

Empty the paunch, rinse it thoroughly in cold water, being careful not to let any of the contents get on the outside. Make strong cleansed water or white lye, let it heat a little, too warm to hold the hands in, pour it over the tripe in a tub, let it stand two or three hours, then tack it up against a board, and with a knife scrape downwards, taking off the inner skin, or rinse it clean in cold water; sprinkle lime over, put in a tub, cover with warm water, and let it stand two or three hours, then scrape it with a knife; if the dark does not all come off easily, sprinkle more lime on, and let it lie for an hour longer, then scrape again, and rinse in cold water until clean. Place it in water enough to cover with a large handful of salt, let it remain in the salt water three days and nights, changing it each day, then take it out, cut in pieces about six inches wide and twelve long, lay in buttermilk for a few hours to whiten; then rinse it clean in cold water, and boil until tender; it will take from four to ten hours, as it should be done so that it can be mashed with the fingers. After thus prepared it can be cooked as preferred.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a butchering-floor procedure rather than a kitchen one, and it belongs to a household that killed its own beef. It cannot be followed today as written; the notes below explain the terms and where the process fails.

A Little History

Buckeye Cookery descends from an Ohio community cookbook of the mid-1870s, though the widely circulated editions under that title were issued from Minneapolis; its meat chapter assumes a household that slaughtered a beef itself and was obliged to find a use for every part of it. Tripe was thrift food in exactly that sense: cheap, laborious, and worth the labour only because the alternative was waste. The lye-and-lime method described here mirrored what commercial tripe dressers did on a larger scale, and the materials were simply what was to hand on a farm, where ash lye served for soap, scouring and hominy and slaked lime for whitewash and mortar. The buttermilk soak "to whiten" is the same cosmetic step that the trade later accomplished with bleaching agents, and it points to a market that judged tripe first by its colour. Directions this long and this technical are generally said to fade from American cookbooks as butchering moved off the farm and into the packing houses.

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