Cook and Be Cool

Twenty complete cold luncheons for hot weather — “efficiency is only another name for intelligent laziness.”

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Egg Fondant

To the white of an egg add two teaspoonfuls of water, a teaspoonful of vanilla and enough sifted confectioners' sugar (teaspoonful at a time) to make a stiff paste. When stiff put onto a bread board or marble slab and knead with the hands until perfectly smooth. It may be colored and flavored in any way preferred.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is an uncooked fondant: raw egg white bound with powdered sugar and never heated at any stage. That single fact rules it out for a modern kitchen.

A Little History

Uncooked egg-white fondant was the shortcut version of a nineteenth-century confectioner's staple. Proper fondant meant boiling a sugar syrup to the soft-ball stage, working it on marble until it turned opaque, and letting it ripen — a project needing a thermometer or a practised hand. Egg white and sifted sugar gave a home cook the same mouldable paste in ten minutes, with no boiling and no guesswork, which is why such recipes crowd the candy chapters of household books over a long stretch of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The paste was tinted with vegetable colours, flavoured with vanilla, rose or peppermint, and used to fill dates and prunes, coat nuts, or centre chocolate creams. Its disappearance from cookbooks is often attributed to the spread of public-health advice on raw eggs in the later twentieth century, and to the arrival of meringue powder and pasteurised whites as commercial substitutes.

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