Cook and Be Cool

Twenty complete cold luncheons for hot weather — “efficiency is only another name for intelligent laziness.”

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Lightning Frosting

To the unbeaten white of an egg add a cupful and a quarter of confectioners' sugar, a few drops of rose water, and ten of vanilla, and the juice of half a lemon. This frosting will be very white and will harden in a few minutes. Nice on crackers or simple cookies for children.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is royal icing in its oldest and simplest form: raw egg white stiffened with confectioners' sugar and nothing else. The method works, but the icing is never heated at any stage, and the book proposes feeding it to children.

A Little History

Uncooked icings of this kind are often said to be a byproduct of the arrival of cheap, finely milled confectioners' sugar in the second half of the nineteenth century: once sugar could be bought already powdered, the argument runs, a cook no longer had to boil a syrup to the right thread to ice a cake, and a stiff white coating became a five-minute job rather than a project. That is what the name promises here. The type is generally traced to the same family as royal icing, the hard white glaze long recorded in British cookery and long used for wedding cakes, though this version is deliberately humble: no beating of the white, no cooked base, and a suggested use on crackers and plain cookies rather than on anything grand. Books of the Cook and Be Cool sort, aimed at the servantless household, favoured exactly these shortcuts, and the raw egg white in them passed without comment for decades before egg-borne salmonella was understood.

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