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Cooking of True Proteids, Tissue Builders, Milk and Cheese
WHEN we are to cook a new article, we should ask ourselves these questions: How will heat affect this? What is its composition? In our first lesson we found in milk an elastic, tenacious curd called casein, which was hardened by a high degree of heat. We also found a greenish liquid (whey), which we rightly suspect to be largely water. If we let a saucepan of milk remain over the fire for some time, a scum will form on the top; this is probably casein. Pour off the milk, and we find coagulated particles on the bottom of the dish. Albumin is coagulated by heat, and we conclude that, at least, a small quantity of albumin is found in milk. Let a cup or more of rich milk stand over night, and a thick (comparatively), yellowish substance will rise to the top of the milk; put a teaspoonful or more of this "top-milk" into your cup of hot coffee, and a few globules of fat will float on the top of the coffee. The whey holds in solution a little mineral matter and milk sugar. Thus, we have in milk proteid (in the form of casein and albumin), water, fat, carbohydrate (milk sugar), and mineral matter, the five food principles. Thus, cow's milk is often called a perfect food; it is for the young calf, but the food principles are not found in the right proportion to make it a perfect food for human beings. The calf, on milk alone, builds up a large, heavy framework of bone in a few months. Many years must pass before a child reaches a similar stage of physical development. Thus, to make cow's milk a perfect food for a child, the bone-making elements need to be reduced and other changes made, or the milk, as we say, should be "modified." An adult would not find it comfortable to take all his food in liquid form. The food elements in milk are combined with too large a proportion of water to make such a diet feasible; but when a glass of milk forms a part of any meal, the other proteid in the meal should be cut down accordingly. We should also keep in mind the quantity of milk used in cooking; as - if we provide a dish of cream toast (toast with thickened milk), we are supplying more proteid than when we have dry toast with butter.
COOKING MILK We know that proteid is toughened by high heat, and that, in general, any process that hardens or toughens a food substance hinders the process of digestion; thus, when we consider the composition of milk, we would naturally conclude that milk, if cooked at all, should be cooked at a low temperature. However, there are people who seem to digest boiled milk better than that which has not been so treated, and, possibly, these are the exceptions that prove the rule. But while there may be some doubt on this point, there is no question but that the flavor of burned milk is absolutely unpalatable. Milk cooked directly over the fire burns very easily; also, when once the boiling point is reached, the bubbles, on account of the large proportion of solid material in the milk - do not break and scatter, but pile up, one above another, until the mass overflows the dish. Then, for this reason, if for no other, milk, whenever it is possible, should be cooked by some means that keep it from being heated to the boiling point. For such purposes we have the "double boiler." Two dishes are arranged, one inside the other, in such a manner that water surrounds the inner dish up to within, perhaps, two inches of the top. Thus, water stand between the article to be cooked and the heat, and the temperature of the cooking article never reaches that of boiling water. By this means, all risk of burning or overcooking is obviated. After the water in the outer vessel has been boiling a few moments, small bubbles will appear close to the kettle, and at the surface of milk, in the inner boiler. These bubbles indicate that the milk is scalded, and that the temperature is about 160 deg F. As long as water is kept in the outer kettle, the temperature of the milk does not rise higher. A double boiler is easily secured by setting a small saucepan on two or three nails disposed in a larger saucepan.
CARE OF MILK Milk is an article that offers conditions favorable to the growth of minute organisms, which may be introduced into it from the air or the utensils in which it is stored. Some of these organisms are harmful, others are not. Some cause the milk to sour. The growth of all organisms is hastened by mild heat, as the death of most is assured by boiling heat. Dealers, who supply milk to cities, are from necessity careful to chill the milk thoroughly as soon as it is taken from the cow; it is, also, kept chilled until the time of delivery. Half an hour in a hot kitchen, or in the sun, will undo all this careful treatment, and hasten the time of souring. Do not wait until after breakfast, but at once, as soon as the milk comes to your hand, set it aside in the coolest place at your command. Milk, cream and butter all readily absorb odors and flavors, and if kept in a refrigerator with other food should be closely covered. When possible, it is well to reserve a separate compartment of the refrigerator for these products. Receptacles, in which these are stored, should be made without seams, lest stale milk, etc., may find lodgment in them, and kept absolutely clean. When a portion of the milk is taken from a bottle, kept with other supplies, replace the stopper, or insert a fresh one before the milk is again set aside.
SOUR MILK After milk sours it becomes thick; if it be cut with a knife or spoon, a greenish, watery liquid (whey) is seen. Sour milk is very useful in cooking. Some cooks fancy they get the best results by using simply the whey. This may be true in making certain dishes. But as the nutritious compounds of the milk are largely found in the thick, white part, it would seem advisable, in general, to use that also.