Anchovy Butter

A compound butter of the plainest kind: the whole method is in the two words "to taste," so the useful information is what the anchovy component actually was and how much of it a modern jar represents.

• "Anchovy sauce" is not WorcestershireIn a book of this period the phrase most often means bottled anchovy essence or a Burgess-style anchovy sauce, a thick, intensely salty brown extract of cured anchovy (though the same words were sometimes used for a made sauce). Anchovy paste from a tube is the closest current equivalent; start with about 1/2 teaspoon per 1/4 cup butter and work up.
• Quantity in modern terms1/4 cup butter is half a stick, 4 tablespoons, 2 oz. It makes enough to finish four to six portions of grilled fish or steak, or to spread six or eight small toasts.
• Cream it properlyThe butter must be soft enough to whip pale and light before anything goes in, or the anchovy will streak rather than disperse. Room temperature, not melted; melted butter will not hold the emulsion and the sauce will weep out.
• SaltAnchovy essence and paste are both very salty, so use unsalted butter if you have it. Taste before adding any salt of your own, and expect to add none.
• ServingThe original gives no direction. Compound butters of this era were commonly shaped and chilled firm, then sliced in coins and laid on hot fish, chops or beefsteak so they melt at the table. It can also be whisked into a pan sauce off the heat.
• KeepingRefrigerated and closely wrapped it holds about a week; frozen, several months. The flavour strengthens over the first day, so season on the light side if you are making it ahead.