Nut Scrapple

A meatless take on scrapple that turns yesterday's cornmeal mush into breakfast slices. The whole thing depends on getting the loaf cold and firm before it meets the pan.

• Chill it properlyThe mush must be thoroughly cold and set before slicing; give it several hours in the refrigerator, or overnight if convenient. Slices cut from barely-cool mush will slump and stick to the griddle.
• "Broil" here means pan-fryIn books of this era to broil on a griddle simply means to cook on a hot greased surface. Use a heavy skillet or cast-iron griddle over medium heat, and leave each side undisturbed for a few minutes so a crust forms.
• Pan sizesA pint of mush is about two cups, which makes only a shallow layer in a modern 9x5-inch loaf pan. A small or mini loaf pan, or a straight-sided plastic container, gives a taller slice that holds together better.
• Wetting the tinRinsing the pan with cold water and not drying it keeps the mush from bonding to the metal, the same trick used for cold puddings and blancmange. A lining of plastic wrap or parchment does the job more reliably.
• Left-over mush, or freshIf you have none on hand, cook coarse cornmeal with water and salt at roughly one part meal to four parts water until it is thick enough to hold a spoon upright. It must be stiff, not pourable, or it will never slice.
• NutsWalnuts, pecans and hickory nuts suit this best, and were readily available in American households of the period. Chop them fairly fine, since large pieces make the slices break along their edges.
• Slice thicknessAbout half an inch. Thinner slices dry out before they brown, thicker ones stay pasty in the centre.
• YieldA pint of mush gives roughly eight to a dozen slices depending on the pan, enough for two or three at breakfast. Serve hot with the jelly on the side, or with maple syrup.