Rice and Egg Timbales

A plain rice custard baked in a water bath, meant to be turned out and sauced. The original gives no oven temperature and no baking time, so the doneness cues below matter more than the clock.

• Oven and water bathThe original names no temperature; a moderate oven of about 325-350F is the usual modern choice for a baked custard of this kind. The pan of hot water should come partway up the sides of the cups, and the water should not be allowed to boil, or the custard may curdle and weep.
• Timing and donenessIndividual cups of this size set in roughly 30 to 40 minutes. They are done when the centre is just firm to a light touch and a knife slipped in comes out clean; carryover heat will finish them.
• The cups"Oiled cups" means individual moulds — timbale moulds, ramekins or ovenproof custard cups. Butter works as well as oil. The mixture comes to well over five cups in all, so the number of moulds it fills depends on their size.
• MeasuresA pint here is 2 cups. One cup of raw rice yielding 3 1/4 cups cooked is an ordinary yield for boiled rice.
• Rice textureSofter-cooked rice binds better with the custard. If your rice is firm and separate, the timbales will still set but will be looser when unmoulded.
• UnmouldingLet the cups stand five minutes out of the water bath, run a thin knife round the edge, and invert onto a warm plate. Turning them out straight from the oven usually tears them.
• SeasoningA teaspoon of salt for 2 cups of milk plus rice is modest by modern taste; grated nutmeg, pepper or a little grated cheese are period-appropriate additions if the dish is going to stand as a main course.
• ServingSmall timbales like these serve as a side dish, or as a light supper with one of the suggested sauces.