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Queen of Puddings

To a quart of milk, allow a pint of fine bread crumbs, a tablespoon of batter, one cup of sugar and the yolks of four eggs; flavor with the grated rind of a lemon, if liked (or a teaspoon of vanilla extract), and half a teaspoon of salt.

Bake in a moderate oven and spread while hot with a layer of any acid jelly or preserves; strained apple juice is sometimes used. Make a meringue of the whites of the eggs and a spoon of powdered sugar, with or without a little lemon juice, and brown in the oven. be eaten cold without sauce. If meringue is not liked, three eggs, yolks and whites, may be used in the pudding, and jelly spread upon the top. This variation is good hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

A baked bread-crumb custard with a jam layer and a meringue lid. The recipe assumes you know how a custard behaves, so the instructions are thin where they matter most.

A Little History

Queen of puddings belongs to the large family of dishes made to use up stale bread and surplus milk in households that bought both daily. The construction -- custard below, preserve in the middle, meringue on top -- is generally traced to English cookery of the mid-1800s, and the royal name appears to be flattery rather than record; no documented connection to a particular queen survives. The recipe closes with an alternative -- three whole eggs, jelly on top, no meringue -- which it frames as a matter of taste ("if meringue is not liked").

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