Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Broiled Lobster

Boil the lobster as directed. When cold take off the claws and separate the tail and body, without breaking the shell ; remove the meat in as large pieces as possible. Clean the shell and wipe dry. Arrange it prettily on a dish, garnish with salad leaves or parsley, dotted with quarters of lemons. Now place the meat of the lobster on a wire broiler, baste with melted butter, dust with salt and pepper, and broil quickly over a clear fire. Put it at once into the shell, pour over a little melted butter, and serve very hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a two-stage dish: the lobster is boiled and cooled first, then the picked meat is briefly seared and returned to the cleaned shell. The whole point is speed at the second stage.

A Little History

The two-stage method here — boil, cool, pick, sear — is a practical response to a kitchen problem rather than a culinary ideal: a boiled lobster keeps for hours in a cool larder and can be finished to order in minutes, which is exactly what a summer dining room needs. The trick of returning the meat to its polished shell and garnishing the dish with parsley and lemon is pure late-Victorian table style, where a plain ingredient was expected to arrive looking composed.

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