Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Corn Fritters

1 dozen ears of corn 2 eggs 1 teaspoonful of baking powder 1 cup of flour ½ pint of milk 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 2 dashes of black pepper Score the corn down the centre of each row of grains, then with the back of the knife press out the pulp, leaving the hull on the cob. Do not grate the corn, as in that way you get the hull. To this pulp add the milk, the yolks of the eggs, salt, pepper and flour; beat well. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them and the baking powder carefully into the mixture. Put lard or dripping into a frying pan; when hot, drop the mixture by spoonfuls into the fat. When brown on one side, turn and brown the other. Take out with a skimmer (do not pierce them with a fork, as it makes them heavy), drain on brown paper and serve very hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

A pan-fried corn fritter from a period when the whole point was to extract the sweet pulp and leave the tough hull behind. That scoring-and-scraping step is the hinge of the recipe.

A Little History

Corn fritters belong to the large American family of dishes built on scraped green corn, a technique with roots in Indigenous foodways and repeated throughout nineteenth-century household manuals as corn oysters, corn pudding and cakes of this sort. The insistence on scoring rather than grating is characteristic of the careful, teacherly American cookery writing of the later nineteenth century, which treated the hull as the difference between a good fritter and a bad one. Sweet corn was a brief high-summer crop, and frying on top of the stove spared the cook the heat of a lit oven.

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