Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

HomeMeats › Pressed Corned Beef

Pressed Corned Beef

Take six pounds of the brisket of beef, remove the bones and tie it tightly in a cloth. Put it in a kettle and cover with cold water. Simmer gently for five hours. When done, take out, place it between two tin sheets or large plates, put a heavy weight upon it over night. Remove the cloth and it is ready for use.

For the Modern Kitchen

A cooked-and-pressed brisket meant to be sliced cold, which is why it turns up in a hot-weather book. The only real decision is what kind of brisket you start with.

A Little History

"Corned" has nothing to do with maize: it refers to the coarse grains, or corns, of salt used to cure the meat, a usage older than the American cornfield. Brisket took the brine well and was cheap, which is part of why it became the signature meat of urban delicatessens. Pressing a boiled joint under weight overnight was a common enough kitchen trick before sliced deli meats could be bought: it drove out water, knit the collagen-rich layers into a sliceable block, and gave a cook something to serve cold for days without lighting the range again. That last point may help explain its place in a hot-weather collection.

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