Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Stuffed Egg-Plant

Cut a medium sized egg-plant into halves. With a knife scoop out the centre of each, leaving a wall with the skin about three-quarters of an inch in thickness. Chop that portion taken from the centre into dice. Peel and cut three good sized tomatoes into dice, and mix with the egg-plant, add two ounces of butter cut into small pieces, a heaping teaspoonful of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, a half teaspoonful of pepper and a teaspoonful of chopped onion. Mix all well together and put into the shells. Sprinkle over with bread crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven thirty or forty minutes.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward baked stuffed eggplant; the only real risks are underbaking the shell and a filling that waters out.

A Little History

Stuffed eggplant is often associated with summer cookery for a practical reason: the fruit ripens in the heat, and a dish that fills a vegetable shell stretches a small amount of butter and no meat at all across a meal, which suited a season when heavy roasts were avoided and iceboxes were unreliable. Eggplant was still regarded with some suspicion in the earlier part of the century, and early cookbooks are sometimes said to have reassured readers it was wholesome. By the 1880s it appears without apology in general-purpose household books, usually fried in slices or stuffed like this. The nutmeg is a period marker: grated nutmeg in savoury vegetable and cream dishes was a common American seasoning well into the twentieth century, and its near-disappearance from that role is one of the clearer shifts between these books and current cooking.

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