Meats: Hamburg
Now we come to the forequarter, which begins at the five prime ribs for roasting. Close to them lie the five chuck ribs, excellent cuts for stews and small steaks. The neck is generally converted into Hamburg steak, while the under part of the animal, which includes the flank, plate, navel, and brisket, are corned.
Here also is the shoulder clod; no cut can excel it in juiciness and flavor when a pot roast or beef à la mode is desired. For the housewife anxious to have a small income provide the best food possible, there are any number of pieces that make a savory dish, only they must be cooked in the way which best fits them. 1. cut from the top of the round marinated, as I suggested, and broiled gives an excellent steak. A cheaper piece of round, from farther down the leg, may be put through the chopper; when broiled, it is good as Hamburg steak; baked, it makes a savory cannelon. A cut from the rump may be braised and is as appetizing hot as cold. A pound or two of rump is the base for a nourishing stew, while a braised or boiled tongue affords one hot meal and several lunch dishes.
An ox tail is delicious fricasseed or in soup. Pot roasting converts a number of cheap cuts into excellent dishes. Among these are the juicy, lean cross ribs, or a solid piece from the lower part of the round or face of the rump. Two pounds of flank, which costs ten or twelve cents a pound, is very good when cooked à la Milanaise. Roll the meat, sauté it brown, season well, and braise slowly for two hours with enough water to make a good gravy.
A sheep's liver is as highly esteemed in England as calf's liver is here. In American markets it is almost given away. If liver looks cloudy, or a heart and kidney have a streaky, spotted appearance, you may be sure they are diseased and will make dangerous food. When cut from a well-nourished, healthy animal, they are smooth, red, and juicy. A calf's heart is a most appetizing dish larded, stuffed with a well-seasoned dressing, roasted, and served with rich, brown gravy.
There is a knack in picking out a soup bone as well as in knowing how to cook it. It ought to be two thirds meat, one third bone and fat. If one has a large family, the best method to follow in winter when making soup, is to purchase two pieces of shin, one heavy with meat, the other bone and gristle. It must be cooked very slowly. When tender, take the meat, separating it from the bone and gristle, which may be left to cook until all the good is out of it.
The meat makes a good hash or stew and is not to be despised for croquettes. Fifty cents' worth of shin (when there is no waste) yields several nourishing meals in the shape of stew, hash, galantine, and soup.
It will pay a housewife who caters Lo a large family to purchase a set of butcher's tools. They cost several dollars, but within a year she can save the price of them by getting pieces of meat, during the winter at least, big enough to make a number of meals. Of course cold-storage room is a necessity. For instance in the course of two weeks, a quarter of mutton can be utilized in a good-sized household. The first part to be used is the flank, because its keeping qualities are not so good as other parts of the quarter. Cut off the small end of the ribs, leaving the loin chops and the rib quite short. The loin can then be hung in a cold pantry. The flank will make several quarts of fine mutton stock as well as a stew. In this way, one may have at a moderate cost the chops for which a butcher charges fancy prices, besides a num- MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK ber of other cuts, which, although not quite as choice, make excellent dishes when cooked properly. Beef, pork, and veal in large cuts may be purchased during the winter and cut by the housewife to suit her needs. An accommodating butcher will generally be willing to give his customer a lesson on how to divide meat, and with sharp tools any woman can accomplish it.
Roast Beef.
Use, if possible, a covered roaster for cooking any sort of meat. The result is much more savory roast and less shrinkage. Wipe the meat, set it in a dripping pan, skin side down, rub with salt and pepper, then dredge with flour. Have the oven as hot as possible when it is put in, so the outside will sear quickly and prevent the escape of the meat juice. As soon as the flour in the pan is brown, reduce the heat and baste with the fat, which has flowed from the roast.
When the meat is half done, turn it on the other side and dredge with flour. Should there be the slightest appearance of flour in the pan turning black, add a little water and baste every fifteen minutes until done, allowing one hour for each five pounds if the meat is desired rare. An hour and twenty minutes is needed if you wish it well done.
Roast-Beef Gravy.