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Outdoor Problems of the Householder: Remove
Remove the centers of the thick bunches so as leave uniform spaces OUTDOOR PROBLEMS OF THE HOUSEHOLDER 251 but preserve as far as possible the best plants.
Hardening Off and Transplanting. -Do not transplant seedlings grown in the house, hot bed or cold frame to the open garden without first accustoming them to effects of sun and wind. To "harden off" plants, increase gradually the ventilation and reduce the amount of watering. But do not let the ground become so dry that the plant will wilt. After a few days leave the plants uncovered throughout the day and on mild nights. They can then be transplanted without loss. Transplant preferably twice; first from the hot bed to the cold frame or especially prepared seed bed in the open garden and, afterwards, thence to the permanent location. This strengthens and improves most plants by increasing the size and vigor of the root system.
Others as melons, cucumbers and beans, do not transplant readily from the seed bed to the open ground.
Start each hill of these in a pint or quart berry box, or on the bottom of a piece of sod 2 or 3 inches thick and 5 or 6 inches square placed root side up in the hot bed or cold frame.
Then bury the box or sod in its proper place in the garden a little below the surface of the earth. Cut out the bottom of the berry box with a sharp knife before planting. By these means the roots of the growing plants are not disturbed.
Choose for transplanting a cool, cloudy day or work in the evening and preferably when the soil is moist but not wet. Soak the earth in the seed bed a few hours before transplanting. Separate the plants from one another by cutting the soil into cubes by means of a knife or trowel.
Remove preferably enough earth from the seed bed to protect the roots. Or, should the earth fall from the roots, "puddle" the plant by dipping the roots in a thin slime consisting of clay, cow manure and water, mixed in a pail or tub. Pick up the plants in small bunches and "puddle" until the roots are coated with moist earth. This protects them from air and affords direct contact of the roots with the soil.
Have the seed bed smooth, fine and level. Mark the location of the rows by a cord fastened to stakes at either end and drawn taut. But do not open the holes or separate the plants until ready to insert them so that the soil will be moist and fresh.
Should the earth be dry, pour a little water in the hole and cover with dry soil to prevent baking. Set the plants upright a little deeper than they stood in the seed bed. Press the earth about them with the fingers so that no open spaces are left. The time of planting must depend upon climatic and other local conditions.
If in doubt, ask some experienced local gardener.
To protect small plants from heat in hot climates drive stakes into the ground slanting toward the north and lean boards against them so as to shade the rows. Or use light frames on lath or wooden slats and cover them with cotton cloth. To protect crops planted in winter from cold and give an early start in the spring, set the stakes slanting to the south and lean boards against them on the north side. Or cover with a mulch of manure, straw or leaves.
But take care that this is not so thick as to keep the air from the plants and also see that it is free from injurious weeds. - Cultivation of Gardens. Horse cultivation is to be preferred when possible. It is cheaper and likely to be more thorough. In this case make the rows as long as possible and plant potatoes, or other crops not easily injured by tramping, in the space required for turning at the ends. The objects of cultivation are to keep down the weeds and conserve soil moisture by providing a surface mulch. Stirring the top soil to a depth of 2 or 3 inches after every rain accomplishes both. Frequent shallow cultivation is the rule with all good gardeners, the more frequent, the better. A light mulch of fine manure, lawn clippings, or the like for ten or twelve inches around young plants will help to preserve the moisture. This is essential for strawberries to keep the fruit from contact with the ground. But do not make this mulch so heavy as to exclude the air. Do not cultivate too soon after a rain. Test the soil by squeezing it in the hand.