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Outdoor Problems of the Householder: Vegetable
It is sound economy to provide a full set of garden tools. A complete outfit of hand tools should include spade and spading fork, steel rake, common hoe, narrow hoe, dibbles and trowels for transplanting, weeders, watering can and wheelbarrow. A wheel hoe is also a great convenience, especially if a horse cultivator is not available. Combined Fruit and Vegetable Garden. It is quite surprising how much can be accomplished upon a very small area by wise selection and proper modes of culture. Often two kinds of crops can be grown upon the same space as by growing small fruits, like the currant or raspberry, between the rows of apple or other fruit trees. Or strawberries may be grown between rows of grapevines.
Or grapevines may be used to screen out-buildings or porches. Or a grape arbor may be utilized as a summer house. Some flowering plants as pansies or violets-and some garden vegetables-as radishes-may also be grown between grapevines, or fruit trees. Asparagus grows well in such a location. There are many plans for combining fruit and vegetable garden which may readily be adapted to local conditions. The following suggestions are made by the Department of Agriculture: An area of 60 by 80 feet set apart as a fruit garden will accommodate 442 fruit-bearing plants of the kinds designated, while an area of 40 by 80 feet will be sufficient for quite a variety of vegetable plants. On these areas, if carefully planned, the following fruit and vegetable plants may be grown:
Thirty-two grapevines, dispersed at intervals of 10 feet around the entire garden; three rows, each containing 6 trees dwarf pears, 18 specimens in all (rows Nos. 2, 10, 14); one row, 6 specimens, peaches (row No. 4); one row, 6 specimens, cherries (row No. 8); one row, 6 specimens, dwarf apples (row No. 6); one row, 6 specimens, plums (row No. 12); one row, 20 specimens, blackberries (row No. 1); two rows, 40 specimens, blackcaps (rows Nos. 3 and 5); two rows, 40 specimens, red raspberries (rows Nos. 7 and 9); three rows, 300 specimens, strawberries (rows Nos. 11, 13 and 15).
Vegetable Plants That Can Be Grown on an Area of 40 by 80 Feet. -One row, row rhubarb, row asparagus (occupying four feet); one row, salsify (1) feet); one row, parsnips (1½ feet); two rows, beets (3 feet); one row, eggplant-plants set 18 inches apart-2 dozen (3 feet); two rows, tomatoes, plants set 2 feet apart-2 dozen (6 feet); one row, summer squash, 12 hills, 3 feet apart (3 feet); two rows, cucumbers, 24 hills, 3 feet apart (1 foot); two rows, early cabbage, 4 dozen plants, set 18 inches apart (4 feet); two rows, late cabbage, 4 dozen plants, set 18 inches apart (4 feet); one row, early celery, 6 dozen plants, set 6 inches apart (2 feet); eight rows, peas, plant in double rows, 4 inches apart, follow by 6 rows late celery, 36 dozen plants (16 feet); two rows, lima beans, 4 dozen hills, 18 inches apart (4 feet); six rows, bunch beans, in succession sow seeds in drills, placing seeds about 6 inches apart in the row; follow by late cabbage, turnips, or spinach (12 feet); two rows, radishes, 4 sowings, planted in double rows 6 inches apart (3 feet); two rows, lettuce, two sorts, adapted for early and late use (3 feet); one row, parsley and peppergrass (1) feet).
The space occupied by the last three plants may be given over to winter squashes by planting these before other crops are off the ground.
This general plan will serve as a OUTDOOR PROBLEMS OF THE HOUSEHOLDER 253 guide to planting in any portion of the United States, but the sorts chosen must be suited to each particular section of the country. As will be seen, this garden is planned to utilize the space to the best possible advantage. In order to secure large returns, the soil must be kept cultivated and well enriched.
Walks, if any are to be maintained as permanent features, should only exist where necessary for ease and comfort in getting about. A permanent walk should divide the fruit garden from the vegetable garden.
This is best made of gravel or some other loose material, which will preserve a dry passageway without preventing rain from penetrating the soil beneath it. The fruit trees which stand beside it will need the moisture which it gathers. On account of the small area occupied and the close planting necessary to secure the results desired, the culture of such a garden must of necessity be by hand.
If the grapevines are trained on the high renewal system, they will serve both as a screen for the rest of the garden and as a source of fruit supply. A good wire fence should, however, be constructed on the line between adjoining properties, and the grape border planted not farther than 2 feet from the boundary fence.
TREES AND SHRUBBERY A good, well-kept lawn affords a natural background against which to display shade trees and shrubbery.
These may be purely ornamental objects. Or such useful trees and shrubs as fruit trees and currant or barberry bushes may be chosen with both ornament and utility in view.
Both these thoughts should be kept in mind in the selection of trees and shrubs and in making the decision where to plant them. As above suggested, to secure best results, treat all of the available space about the home site as a single tract. The work of grading, breaking, manuring and otherwise preparing the soil can be done both cheaper and better all at one time. And the treatment requisite for the lawn and garden will prepare the soil for the reception of trees and shrubs.
First make a plan of the home site, to scale, with pencil and paper. On this mark the location of all buildings and other cultural objects and landmarks. This will greatly assist in securing pleasing effects in laying out even the smallest and simplest of home grounds. Mark the dimensions and outlines of the portion to be reserved for lawn and greensward. 12 HOS LOT.