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The Day's Routine: Glassware

To Clean Cut Glass and Fine Glassware.-Cut glass and very fine glass water bottles, decanters, and vases may be cleaned by first placing the decanter on a steel knife blade, or dropping into it a piece of silver, and then pouring into it equal quantities of hot vinegar and salt. When the decanter has become warm put in the stopper and shake thoroughly.

Or put in two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a tablespoonful of baking soda. This will effervesce vigorously.

Hold the article over the sink, but do not put in the cork, or the vessel may burst.

Or fill with buttermilk, let stand forty-eight hours, and wash in soapsuds.

Or rinse with a weak solution of muriatic acid.

To Clean Vases. - When the inside of a glass or other delicate vase becomes discolored and stained from flower stems, put a little water into the vase and add several slices of lemon, including the rind. Let stand a day or two. Rinse with clear water.

To Sweeten Musty Bottles.-Rinse THE DAY'S ROUTINE with water containing one or two teaspoonfuls of powdered charcoal, or rinse with a dilute solution of sulphuric acid at the rate of about two ounces of acid to a pint of water.

To Wipe Glass. - Glassware should be wiped dry as soon as it is lifted from the water without waiting for it to drain. For glassware use scrim or towels which have no lint.

Or rinse the articles with cold water and allow them to dry without wiping.

They will be much clearer than if wiped with a cloth.

To Polish Glassware. - Save all tissue paper to polish glassware. Or save scraps of chamois. Cut these into inch squares and string on twine with a darning needle as beads are strung. Use this to polish glassware.

STEEL KNIVES AND FORKS Carving knives and forks, steel-blade knives used for roasts and game, and kitchen knives require special care to keep them in good order. Wrap the best knives and forks in cotton batting or strips of cotton flannel or outing flannel. Each dozen of knive and forks may be rolled up in a separate strip, or pockets may be made for them of suitable material in which they may be slipped and put away out of the reach of dampness.

To prevent rust when not in use rub the steel with sweet oil or olive oil.

Dampen a cloth with the oil and wipe them lightly so as to give them a thin coating before putting away. Or put powdered quicklime in a small cheesecloth bag and dust steel knives and forks with this before they are wrapped up and put away.

Or keep in the pantry a deep box or earthen jar containing fine, dry sand and plunge the blades into this when not in use. This will prevent rust and all necessity of scouring.

To Wash.-Steel knives and forks should never be allowed to stand long before cleaning, but should be washed as soon as possible after being used.

The fatty acids contained in grease, and the fruit acids contained in salad dressings, vinegar, tarts, etc., will etch and stain the metal until they are removed. Collect the steel knives and forks as soon as the dishes are cleared away and soak them in a vessel of hot water. Wash in hot suds and water and then polish.

To Scour. Brick dust, pumice stone, rotten stone, sifted wood or coal ashes, baking soda, and bath brick are all recommended for cleaning steel knives.

Make a bag of two pieces of old carpet, one 6 inches square and the other about 2 inches longer. Place the faces together and bind the edges with cloth or tape, leaving one end open with a 2-inch flap to fold over and fasten with a button. Fill this bag one fourth full of brick dust, shake well, and polish the knives in this.

They will thus be cleaned on both sides at once.

Or cut a raw potato in half and dip in brick dust or other cleanser, and with it rub the knives and forks.

Or rub with cloth moistened with kerosene and dipped in the dry cleanser. a Or use the same as brick dust powdered charcoal, rotten stone, water, lime, or sifted wood or coal ashes.

To Remove Rust. - Moisten a rag with kerosene oil, dip it in dry brick dust and rub the knives with it.

Ivory-handled Knives. - Keep the ivory and bone handles of steel-bladed knives out of water, especially hot water. After they have been used, set them in a deep dish or pitcher so that the water will cover the blades but will not touch the handles. Do not have the water too hot, or the part which runs up into the handle will expand and crack the bone or ivory.

After washing the blades with soap and water, wipe the handles with a damp cloth.

To Fasten Knife Handles. - If a bone or an ivory handle comes off the knife, mix a little plaster of Paris with water to a thin paste, pour it into the hole in the handle, insert the blade, and when cold it will be solid.

Or fill the hole with powdered alum.

Heat the steel end quite hot and push it into the hole. When cold it will be firmly fastened.

To Bleach Ivory Knife Handles.- For whitening ivory the bleaching action of sunshine on a moist surface is recommended. Spirits of turpentine, alum, lime, potash, prepared chalk, ammonia, lemon juice, and pumice stone are also used.

Make a paste of prepared chalk with aqua ammonia and olive oil.

Cover the articles with this, and when dry rub it off. Repeat if necessary.

Or rub with a cloth moistened in turpentine. Or moisten a cloth in vinegar dipped in brick dust, and rub. Or dip half a lemon in salt and rub; afterwards rinse in warm water. Or make a paste of slacked lime and water, apply with a wet cloth, and rub off when dry. Or use a mixture of whiting and potash lye.

CARE OF SILVERWARE The problems connected with the care of silverware are the daily cleaning, the daily and weekly polishing, the prevention of stains and discolorations, and the removal of these when formed. It is advisable to have a regular time for polishing silver each week, according to the convenience of the housewife. In many households this is done on Saturday with other cleaning, as a part of the general preparation for Sunday when guests are often entertained and it is desirable to have the silver looking its best.

To Pack and Store Silver. - Silverware which is not in daily use should be protected from contact with the air, which often contains traces of sulphureted hydrogen or marsh gas.