Housekeeping in Old Virginia

Seventeen hundred recipes from the housewives of Old Virginia — Sally Lunn and beaten biscuit, brandy peaches and Brunswick stew — gathered in 1879 by Patrick Henry's granddaughter, with tributes from the First Lady down.

HomeCookery › Blackberry Cordial

Blackberry Cordial

Two quarts blackberry juice, one pound loaf sugar, four grated nutmegs, one-quarter ounce ground cloves, one-quarter ounce ground allspice, one-quarter ounce ground cinnamon. Simmer all together, for thirty minutes, in a stewpan closely covered, to prevent evaporation. Strain through a cloth when cold and add a pint of the best French brandy. Soothing and efficacious in the summer complaints of children. Dose, one teaspoonful poured on a little pounded ice, once or several times a day, as the case may require. Whortleberry cordial may be made by the same recipe. Good old whiskey may be used for either, in the absence of brandy.--Mrs. Gen. S. Blackberry Cordial.

Half a bushel of berries, well mashed, one quarter pound of allspice (pulverized), two ounces cloves (pulverized). Mix and boil slowly till done. Then strain through homespun or flannel, and one pound white sugar to each pint of juice. Boil again, and, when cool, add half a gallon best brandy. Good for diarrhea or dysentery. Dose, one teaspoonful or more according to age.--Mrs. S. B.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two versions of the same household remedy, one small and one made in bulk at the height of the berry season. Both are workable as a spiced blackberry liqueur; the dosing instructions attached to them are another matter.

A Little History

Fruit cordials sat on the line between the pantry and the medicine chest for most of the nineteenth century, and blackberry cordial sat further onto the medicine side than most. Blackberry root and fruit were standard domestic astringents, credited with checking the "summer complaint" that killed a great many children in the hot months before anyone understood contaminated milk and water, and American household books of the period often carry a version of this recipe, usually with a dose attached. Housekeeping in Old Virginia, compiled by Marion Cabell Tyree in the late 1870s from contributions by named Virginia housewives, prints two of them side by side under the initials of their donors, a record of what particular women actually kept in their cupboards rather than tested standardised formulas. The astringency the cooks trusted comes from tannins in the fruit, which is a real property; the brandy, doing most of the visible work on a distressed patient, is the part that reads worst now.

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