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Bologna Sausage
Take ten pounds of beef, and four pounds pork, two-thirds lean and one-third fat; chop very fine and mix well together. Season with six ounces fine salt, one ounce black pepper, one-half ounce cayenne pepper, and sage to the taste.--Mrs. Dr. S.
This is a seasoning formula for a cured, casing-stuffed sausage, and everything that would make it safe has been left out. The points below explain what is missing rather than how to supply it.
- No curing agentNineteenth-century bologna was a cured sausage, stuffed into large casings and then smoked or air-dried, often eaten without further cooking. This formula calls for salt and spice only — no saltpetre, no nitrite — so nothing in it inhibits Clostridium botulinum inside the anaerobic interior of a stuffed casing.
- No temperature anywhereThere is no smoking temperature, no drying temperature, no internal finishing temperature, and no holding time. A 14-pound batch of chopped meat handled at room temperature and then held in a warm smokehouse is a growth window for Staphylococcus aureus and salmonella, and the recipe gives no way to close it.
- Salt is seasoning, not preservationSix ounces of salt in 14 pounds of meat is roughly 2.7 percent by weight. That is a good eating level and it is well short of what would preserve an uncooked sausage on its own, which is the whole premise of a bologna.
- Ground meat is not a whole cutChopping spreads surface bacteria through the entire mass, so the mixture cannot be treated the way a whole roast is. A modern recipe with weighed cure, measured drying humidity and a verified internal temperature should be used instead.
- Historic unitsWeights here are avoirdupois and translate directly — six ounces of salt is by weight, not volume, and "fine salt" most likely means finely milled salt rather than the coarse dairy or bay salt sold in barrels. "Sage to the taste" is the only unmeasured element in the formula.
- The absent stepNote what the entry never says: how to stuff, how long to hang, or how to know when it is done. The terseness suggests a reader presumed to know the rest of the process already. That assumed knowledge is exactly the part a modern kitchen does not have.
Bologna takes its name from the Italian city and its mortadella, a large, finely emulsified pork sausage, though by the time this recipe was collected the American "bologna" had become a beef-heavy sausage stuffed into wide casings and sold from the smokehouse or the grocer's counter. Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1879) was assembled by Marion Cabell Tyree from contributions signed with initials and honorifics — "Mrs. Dr. S." is typical — and that method may explain the terseness here: a contributor sent in her proportions, not a lesson. The black pepper, cayenne and sage mark it as a Virginia recipe rather than an Italian one.