Curing Bacon
One peck salt to five hundred pounds pork. To five gallons water: 4 pounds salt. 1 pound sugar. 1 pint molasses. 1 teaspoonful saltpetre. Mix, and after sprinkling the fleshy side of the ham with the salt, pack in a tight barrel. Hams first, then shoulders, middlings. Pour over the brine; leave the meat in brine from four to seven weeks.--Mrs. Dr. J.
This is a farm-scale brine cure written for a smokehouse winter, and it cannot be reproduced safely in a modern kitchen. The points below explain what the instructions leave out rather than how to adapt them.
- No temperature anywhereA cure of four to seven weeks only works if the meat stays cold — roughly 36-40F — for the entire period. The original assumes an unheated Virginia cellar or meat house in December and January, and says nothing about it, because the season did the work. Without measured and maintained refrigeration, the interior of a ham spends weeks in the range where spoilage and pathogenic bacteria multiply faster than salt can penetrate.
- The saltpetre is badly out of rangeOne teaspoonful of saltpetre in five gallons of brine, spread across whole hams and shoulders, is a nitrate dose too small and too uneven to be relied on for anything. Modern curing uses weighed nitrite cure at a fixed percentage of meat weight for exactly this reason. An unmeasured, under-dosed nitrate cure on large bone-in cuts held for weeks leaves the deep tissue near the bone poorly protected, where anaerobic spoilage and, in the worst case, Clostridium botulinum are a genuine risk.
- The brine is weaker than it looksFour pounds of salt to five gallons of water is roughly a 9 percent brine, and it is diluted further by the water drawn out of 500 pounds of meat. Traditional cures depended on repeated overhauling, resalting, and a hard dry rub as well; the peck of dry salt in the first line is doing much of the work, and the recipe never says how it is applied beyond a sprinkle on the fleshy side.
- The scale is not divisible by eyeA peck is a dry measure of eight quarts, and the weight of salt it holds depends on the grind; 500 pounds of pork is several hogs. Cutting a cure down proportionally does not scale the geometry — penetration time depends on the thickness of the cut, not the batch weight — so there is no arithmetic that turns this into a safe small-batch method.
- Missing steps the author assumedThere is no instruction to overhaul the barrel, to check that the meat stays submerged, to test the brine, to freshen and dry the hams afterward, or to smoke and hang them. Every one of those was standard practice and every one affects whether the finished bacon was safe. The recipe is a memorandum for someone who already knew the process.
- What to do insteadIf you want to cure bacon or ham at home, use a current recipe that specifies weighed nitrite cure as a percentage of meat weight, a refrigerated cure temperature, and a target internal temperature or water activity.
- Reading the cuts"Middlings" are the sides — the belly and flank, what becomes bacon proper; shoulders and hams are the front and hind legs. Packing hams first and middlings last puts the thickest, slowest-curing pieces at the bottom of the barrel, under the rest of the meat.
Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1879), compiled by Marion Cabell Tyree from contributions by Virginia housewives, appeared while pork was still the backbone of Southern household provisioning: a family killed hogs in the cold weather after the first hard frosts, and what was not eaten fresh went into salt to feed the house for a year. Virginia hams were already famous by then, though the most celebrated Virginia and Smithfield hams were dry-salt cured rather than barrel-brined. The saltpetre, potassium nitrate, was there for color and for the keeping quality cooks had observed for centuries without knowing the chemistry; the nitrite that actually does the work was not identified as the active agent until the early twentieth century, which is part of why nineteenth-century doses vary so wildly from one receipt to the next. That the whole thing is addressed to 500 pounds of pork and signed only "Mrs. Dr. J." tells you both the scale of the operation and the collaborative, half-private character of the book.