Housekeeping in Old Virginia

Seventeen hundred recipes from the housewives of Old Virginia — Sally Lunn and beaten biscuit, brandy peaches and Brunswick stew — gathered in 1879 by Patrick Henry's granddaughter, with tributes from the First Lady down.

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Curing Bacon

One peck salt to five hundred pounds pork. To five gallons water: 4 pounds salt. 1 pound sugar. 1 pint molasses. 1 teaspoonful saltpetre. Mix, and after sprinkling the fleshy side of the ham with the salt, pack in a tight barrel. Hams first, then shoulders, middlings. Pour over the brine; leave the meat in brine from four to seven weeks.--Mrs. Dr. J.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a farm-scale brine cure written for a smokehouse winter, and it cannot be reproduced safely in a modern kitchen. The points below explain what the instructions leave out rather than how to adapt them.

A Little History

Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1879), compiled by Marion Cabell Tyree from contributions by Virginia housewives, appeared while pork was still the backbone of Southern household provisioning: a family killed hogs in the cold weather after the first hard frosts, and what was not eaten fresh went into salt to feed the house for a year. Virginia hams were already famous by then, though the most celebrated Virginia and Smithfield hams were dry-salt cured rather than barrel-brined. The saltpetre, potassium nitrate, was there for color and for the keeping quality cooks had observed for centuries without knowing the chemistry; the nitrite that actually does the work was not identified as the active agent until the early twentieth century, which is part of why nineteenth-century doses vary so wildly from one receipt to the next. That the whole thing is addressed to 500 pounds of pork and signed only "Mrs. Dr. J." tells you both the scale of the operation and the collaborative, half-private character of the book.

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