German Pickle

A sweet-sour spiced plum pickle of the kind served alongside cold meat and game. The proportions are sound; what the original omits is anything about vinegar strength, sealing or keeping.

• The hinge: scald, do not stewDamsons go to mush the moment they are cooked through. Lower them into the simmering syrup a handful at a time and lift them out as soon as the skins split, which takes a minute or two, then let the next batch heat in the same syrup.
• DamsonsSmall, tart, oval blue-black plums with a firm skin, still sold in late summer at farm markets. A pound is roughly 25 to 30 fruit. Italian prune plums are the closest substitute; they are sweeter, so cut the sugar slightly. Leave them whole and unpitted as intended.
• Vinegar strengthNineteenth-century household vinegar varied widely. Use a standard 5 percent cider or white wine vinegar; a pint is 2 cups, and the 1/2 pound of sugar is a generous cup (roughly 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons).
• The spicesA teaspoon of whole cloves is assertive with only a pound of fruit. Tie the cloves and two or three broken cinnamon sticks in cheesecloth so they can be lifted out, otherwise cloves lodge in the fruit and dominate everything.
• Filling the jarsThree-fourths full presumably refers to the fruit alone; the syrup brings the level up. After the last batch of plums is out, boil the syrup down for a few minutes so it thickens slightly, then pour it over hot fruit in hot jars.
• Keeping itThe original gives no instructions for sealing, processing or storage. Treat it as a refrigerator pickle, good for a month or more, or follow a current tested water-bath process if you want it shelf-stable.
• Yield and servingRoughly a pint or more, depending on how much syrup goes in. Let it sit at least a week before eating; the flavor is raw and sharp at first and rounds out considerably. Serve with ham, roast pork, duck or sharp cheese.