Housekeeping in Old Virginia

Seventeen hundred recipes from the housewives of Old Virginia — Sally Lunn and beaten biscuit, brandy peaches and Brunswick stew — gathered in 1879 by Patrick Henry's granddaughter, with tributes from the First Lady down.

HomeCookery › Indian Bread

Indian Bread

Beat two eggs very light, mix alternately with them one pint of sour milk or buttermilk, and one pint of fine corn meal. Melt one tablespoonful of butter, and add to the mixture. Dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a small portion of the milk, and add to the other ingredients, last of all. Beat hard and bake in a pan, in a hot oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain buttermilk cornbread with no wheat flour and no sugar, leavened entirely by soda reacting with sour milk. It comes together in under five minutes, so have the pan hot before you start mixing.

A Little History

"Indian bread" and "Indian meal" were the standard English-language terms for maize and maize flour from the colonial period well into the nineteenth century, distinguishing it from wheat, which was simply "flour." Recipes like this one — meal, sour milk, soda, an egg or two, no sugar and no wheat — represent the older Southern cornbread tradition, before soft winter wheat flour and sweetening became common in the batter. Housekeeping in Old Virginia, compiled by Marion Cabell Tyree and published in 1878, gathered contributions from Virginia households and includes a long run of corn breads, batter breads and pones, which says something about how central cornmeal remained to Virginia cooking a decade after the Civil War. The reliance on soured milk rather than commercial baking powder is a good period marker: soda plus an acid dairy product was the cheap, reliable leavening in a kitchen where milk soured on its own every day.

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