Poached Eggs
Let the eggs be perfectly fresh, and the pan at least two inches deep in boiling water. Break the eggs carefully, just over the water on in a spoon, so that they may be slipped into the water with their shape preserved. Take them up in a large perforated spoon, cover with fresh melted butter and sprinkle with salt--never pepper, as some persons do not use it, and it mars the appearance of the dish.--Mrs. S. T.
EGGS WITH TOAST. (A Spring Dish.) Cut bread in squares, and toast a light brown. Poach eggs nicely, place each one on a piece of toast. Pour melted butter over them, and serve.--Mrs. S. T.
Two brief instructions from the same contributor, both usable as written. The only things missing are a temperature, a time, and a yield.
- Lower the heat before the eggs go inThe book says boiling water, but rolling water tears the whites into rags. Bring it to a boil, then drop it back to a bare simmer at around 180-190F, with only occasional bubbles rising.
- TimingNo time is given. Three minutes in barely simmering water gives a set white and a liquid yolk; four minutes gives a yolk that is thick but still soft. Lift one out and press it with a fingertip if unsure.
- Why freshness is the hinge"Perfectly fresh" is not decoration. The thick albumen in a new-laid egg holds a compact shape; in an older egg it has thinned and will feather away in the water. Fresh eggs are the reason this recipe needs no vinegar, no salt in the water, and no whirlpool.
- Two inches of waterDepth matters more than pan width. The egg needs to fall clear of the bottom and set on the way down, so a deep saucepan or a straight-sided sauteuse works better than a shallow frying pan.
- Perforated spoonA slotted spoon or a skimmer. Rest the egg on it for a moment so the water drains off, otherwise the butter slides straight off and the toast goes soggy.
- "Fresh melted butter"In period usage "fresh butter" generally means sweet, unsalted butter rather than salted or stale; melt it shortly before serving and do not let it brown. Unsalted suits this recipe, which salts the eggs separately.
- YieldNeither version gives numbers. Reckon two eggs and two squares of toast per person for a light meal. Poach no more than four at a time or the water temperature drops and the timing goes to pieces.
- Runny yolks and who should skip themA three-minute yolk does not reach a pasteurizing temperature. For anyone pregnant, elderly, very young or immune-compromised, use pasteurized shell eggs or cook the yolk through.
Housekeeping in Old Virginia (usually dated 1878, with 1879 printings also in circulation), compiled by Marion Cabell Tyree, is a collection of contributions from named Virginia housekeepers, which is why so many entries end with initials rather than a byline; "Mrs. S. T." supplied both of these. The instruction to withhold pepper is the most telling line here: the text says only that some persons do not use pepper and that it mars the appearance of the dish. Eggs on toast is labeled "a spring dish" because hens in the era before controlled lighting laid heavily as the days lengthened and hardly at all in midwinter, so eggs were genuinely seasonal and cheapest and best in spring. The technique itself is old and unattributed in these books; the poaching is done without vinegar, relying only on egg freshness and quiet water.