Housekeeping in Old Virginia

Seventeen hundred recipes from the housewives of Old Virginia — Sally Lunn and beaten biscuit, brandy peaches and Brunswick stew — gathered in 1879 by Patrick Henry's granddaughter, with tributes from the First Lady down.

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Raspberry Vinegar

Put a quart red raspberries in a bowl. Pour over them a quart strong apple vinegar. After standing twenty-four hours, strain through a bag, and add the liquid to a quart of fresh berries. After twenty-four hours more, strain again, and add the liquid to a third quart of berries. After straining the last time, sweeten liberally with pounded loaf sugar, refine and bottle. Blackberry vinegar may be made by the same recipe.--Mrs. C. N. Raspberry Vinegar.

Put two quarts ripe, fresh gathered berries in a stone or china vessel, and pour over them a quart of vinegar. After standing twenty-four hours, strain through a sieve. Pour the liquid over two quarts fresh berries, which strain after twenty four hours. Allow one pound loaf sugar to each pint of juice. Break up the sugar and let it melt in the liquid. Put the whole in a stone jar, cover closely, and set in a kettle of boiling water, which must be kept boiling water, which must be kept boiling briskly an hour. Take off the scum, and, when cold, bottle.--Miss N. L.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two versions of the same drinking vinegar, or shrub: fruit steeped in vinegar through successive batches of berries, then sweetened heavily. The second is pasteurised in a water bath, the first is not.

A Little History

Raspberry vinegar belongs to the family of shrubs -- fruit, vinegar and sugar syrups that predate reliable refrigeration and gave households a way to hold summer fruit in drinkable form. A spoonful in cold water was a common hot-weather refresher, and such vinegars were also carried into the sickroom, where the acid was thought to cut fever and quench thirst better than plain water. The repeated steeping here is the whole point of the method: each new quart of berries loads the same vinegar with more fruit, so the finished syrup tastes of raspberry rather than of cider. Housekeeping in Old Virginia, compiled by Marion Cabell Tyree and published in 1877, gathered contributions from many Virginia households, which is why two variants sit side by side under one heading, initialled by their separate authors and differing on whether the syrup should be boiled at all.

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