Housekeeping in Old Virginia

Seventeen hundred recipes from the housewives of Old Virginia — Sally Lunn and beaten biscuit, brandy peaches and Brunswick stew — gathered in 1879 by Patrick Henry's granddaughter, with tributes from the First Lady down.

HomeCookery › To Cure Beef Ham

To Cure Beef Ham

Divide the ham into three parts; rub on half-pint molasses; let it remain in this molasses a day and two nights, turning it over occasionally during the time. Rub on then one handful salt and put it back in the vessel with the molasses; turn it over, morning and night for ten days. Hang it up to dry for one week, then smoke a little. It is an excellent plan, after sufficiently smoked, to put each piece of beef in a bag, to protect from insects, and keep hanging till used.--Miss K. W.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a dry-cure for a "beef ham" — the round of a beef carcass, salted, smoked and hung at room temperature for weeks or months. As written it cannot be reproduced safely in a modern kitchen, and the reasons are worth spelling out.

A Little History

"Beef ham" in Southern household books means the round or hip of beef treated by the same molasses-and-salt method the family already used on pork — the word ham here describes the cut and the technique rather than the animal. Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1879), compiled by Marion Cabell Tyree from contributions by Virginia women, many of whom appear only as initials, is full of these recipes; "Miss K. W." is one of them. Molasses cures of this kind turn up in the region's household books, valued for the dark surface and sweetness they gave. What the recipe assumes and does not say — a killing frost, a dirt-floored smokehouse, a household eating steadily through the meat — is the whole of its food safety, and none of it survives the move indoors.

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