Housekeeping in Old Virginia

Seventeen hundred recipes from the housewives of Old Virginia — Sally Lunn and beaten biscuit, brandy peaches and Brunswick stew — gathered in 1879 by Patrick Henry's granddaughter, with tributes from the First Lady down.

HomeCookery › Wild Black Grape Wine

Wild Black Grape Wine

Pick the grapes from the stem and cover with water. Mash and strain immediately. Add three pounds white sugar to one gallon juice. Garden grape wine is made in the same way. If you prefer a red wine, let the water stand on the grapes all night. The light wine is the best, however. This wine has to be kept much longer than blackberry wine before it is fit for use.--Mrs. M. D.

For the Modern Kitchen

A bare-bones country wine recipe that assumes knowledge the modern reader does not have: it names no yeast, no vessel, no fermentation time, and no test for when fermentation has finished. Treat it as a proportion rather than a procedure.

A Little History

Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1877), compiled by Marion Cabell Tyree from contributions by Virginia housekeepers, carries a run of domestic wines and cordials contributed under initials like "Mrs. M. D."; blackberry wine, which this recipe names, is among them. Making wine from wild fruit was a household economy rather than a hobby: the grapes cost nothing but the walk, and the sugar was the only outlay. Virginia's woods yield several native Vitis species, generally lumped together as fox or frost grapes, and their high acid and thick skins are consistent with a recipe that leans on three pounds of sugar per gallon and warns that the wine must sit a long while before it is fit to drink. The casualness of the instructions reflects a period when fermentation was managed by feel and by the yeast already living on the fruit; controlled yeast strains were only beginning to be understood in commercial winemaking in these same decades.

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