How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Beans (String the beans cut them)

String the beans, cut them in several pieces, throw them into boiling water, boil rapidly fifteen minutes. Have the jars ready, filled with warm water to slightly heat them. Empty them and fill quickly with the beans, and seal precisely the same as for fruit.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is an open-kettle canning method for a low-acid vegetable, and it is the one category of nineteenth-century preserving that modern food science rules out entirely. The notes below explain the failure rather than repair it.

A Little History

Recipes like this one sit at the awkward hinge of home preserving history. Domestic canning spread rapidly after the 1858 patenting of the screw-top Mason jar, and cookbooks of the following half-century taught a single all-purpose method — heat the food, fill hot jars, seal — applied indiscriminately to peaches, tomatoes and beans alike. It worked well enough on acidic fruit that the gap in the reasoning went unnoticed for decades. Botulinum toxin was identified in the late nineteenth century in connection with spoiled sausage and ham, but its link to home-canned vegetables only became clear in the 1910s and 1920s, when American agricultural experiment stations and the Department of Agriculture began urging pressure canning for low-acid produce. A page like this is a useful reminder of how recently that distinction between acid and low-acid foods entered the ordinary kitchen.

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