How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Browned Turnips

Pare and cut into slices crosswise six good-sized turnips. Boil twenty minutes, drain in a colander. Put two tablespoonfuls of drippings into a frying-pan; when hot, dust the turnips with sugar, put into the fat, turn carefully until the slices are nicely browned. Serve with duck or goose.

For the Modern Kitchen

A simple two-stage vegetable dish: parboil, then pan-brown in fat. The only real technique is keeping the slices intact through the turn.

A Little History

Turnips were a winter staple in Britain and North America long before the potato displaced them, cheap, storable through the cold months, and grown as much for livestock as for the table, which did nothing for their reputation. Pairing them with duck or goose is a matter of balance: both birds are fatty, and the faint bitterness of turnip cuts the richness, a pairing found in French and English cookery in dishes like canard aux navets. The dusting of sugar here is doing what a modern cook would call glazing, encouraging caramelization on the cut surface. Cookbooks of this period commonly call for drippings, the fat saved from roasting, and reusing that fat was thrift as much as flavour.

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