How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Corn Fritters

2 eggs, 1/2 pound of flour, 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, 2 dashes of pepper.

Score the corn down the centre of each row of grains, then with a blunt knife press out the pulp, leaving the hull on the cob. Never grate corn, as in that way you get all

For the Modern Kitchen

The text breaks off mid-sentence, so the frying instructions are missing and no quantity of corn is given. What survives is still useful: the ingredient list, and a strong opinion about how to get corn off the cob.

A Little History

Corn fritters belong to the large American family of dishes built on the brief midsummer window when sweet corn is still milky enough to scrape. Nineteenth and early twentieth century cookbooks return again and again to the distinction this recipe insists on: grated corn versus scored and pressed corn. Before modern sweet corn varieties, the hulls are generally said to have been noticeably tougher, and a cook who grated her ears got a batter flecked with them. The blunt-knife method appears in kitchen manuals well before this one, though many period books cheerfully instruct the cook to grate, which is why this author bothers to argue against it. That a recipe collection gives fritters at all is characteristic of the period, when a vegetable course was expected to be substantial enough to stand near the meat.

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