Corn-Salad

Corn-salad is mâche, sold today as lamb's lettuce or sometimes fetticus. The recipe assumes you know what French dressing is and how spinach is handled, so both need filling in.

• Washing is the whole jobMâche grows in low rosettes that trap grit at the base, and it bruises if handled roughly. Swish it in a deep bowl of cold water, lift the leaves out rather than pouring off, and repeat until no sand settles. Dry it well or the dressing will slide off.
• French dressing of the periodThe term usually meant something close to three parts oil to one of vinegar with salt and pepper, whisked or shaken to combine; period recipes vary, and some add mustard or paprika. Olive oil and a mild wine vinegar suit mâche, which is delicate and nutty and disappears under anything sharp.
• Dress at the tableThe rosettes wilt within minutes of meeting acid and oil. Toss immediately before serving, and use a light hand: mâche takes less dressing than a sturdy lettuce such as romaine.
• "Cooked the same as spinach" means barely cookedMâche has even less structure than spinach. A minute in a covered pan with the water clinging to the leaves, or a brief plunge into boiling salted water, is enough; press out the liquid and season with butter, salt and a little pepper. Anything longer reduces it to sludge.
• Quantity and yieldThe original gives none. Mâche is very light — about 4 oz of leaves makes salad for two, and cooking collapses it to a fraction of its volume, so figure 8 oz per person if you are serving it hot as a vegetable.
• Buying itIt comes either as loose leaves in a bag or as whole rosettes with the root end attached. The rosettes keep far better and look better on the plate; trim only the root, and leave the little clusters intact.