How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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To Cook Dry Corn

Cover one pint of corn with warm water and soak over night. In the morning, if the corn has absorbed all the water, add more and cook slowly on the back part of the stove for two hours. At the end of this time the water should be entirely absorbed; if not, remove the lid and boil rapidly a few moments, then add a half cup of cream, one tablespoonful of butter, a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper. Serve very hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is dried sweet corn, not field corn or hominy, and the whole recipe hinges on rehydration rather than cooking. Two things decide the outcome: a long soak, and heat low enough that the kernels never scorch as the last of the water goes.

A Little History

Drying sweet corn was one of the standard ways an American household kept the summer crop before home canning and freezing became routine — kernels were cut from the cob, sometimes after a brief scalding, and dried on screens or in a slow oven until hard. The result keeps for a year or more and develops a concentrated, faintly toasted sweetness quite unlike fresh corn, which is why dried corn survived as a regional specialty in southeastern Pennsylvania long after the preservation need disappeared. Its appearance in a turn-of-the-century vegetable manual reflects a kitchen still organized around a pantry of dry stores and a stove with hot and cool zones, where a dish could be set at the back to look after itself for two hours.

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