How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Pickled Carrots

Scrape and wash in cold water six good-sized carrots, cut in slices cross-wise; throw them into a kettle of boiling water, boil until tender, about three-quarters of an hour. Drain, put in a jar and pour over them cold vinegar, add one slice of onion, two bay leaves and a teaspoonful of celery seed. They will be ready to use in twelve hours. These pickled carrots make a delightful garnish for cold meat dishes, potato salad, or may be served following soup with celery, olives, etc.

STEWED CARROTS, No. 1.

Scrape and cut into cubes sufficient carrots to make one pint. throw into a kettle of boiling water; cook threequarters of an hour, then drain. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, add a half pint of good stock and one tablespoonful of sugar. Boil rapidly ten minutes, take from the fire, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, a half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Drain and dish the carrots, pour the sauce over them while very hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two carrot recipes run together: a quick vinegar pickle meant to be eaten within days, and a stewed carrot dish finished with an egg-yolk liaison. Both are sound, but the timings belong to an era of older, coarser carrots.

A Little History

Pickled carrots of this kind belong to the long tradition of the household "quick pickle" -- vegetables cooked, jarred, covered with vinegar and eaten within the week, quite distinct from the barrels of cucumbers and cabbage put down for winter. The suggested uses give away the period: a garnish for cold meats, a bright note in potato salad, or part of the relish course of celery, olives and pickles that was set on the table after the soup in late Victorian and Edwardian dining. Carrots were cheap, kept well in a root cellar, and coloured a plate at a season when little else did. The stewed version, with its stock, sugar and egg-yolk liaison, reflects the teaching of the English cookery schools, where thickening a sauce with yolks off the heat was standard instruction.

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