How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Soup Crécy

4 good-sized carrots, 1 pint of milk, 1 onion, 2 bay-leaves, 1 pint of water, Piece of bacon rind or a small piece of bacon, Salt and pepper to taste.

Scrape and grate the carrots into the water; add the bacon, onion and bay-leaves. Simmer gently thirty minutes. Then remove the bay-leaves and bacon, add the milk and seasoning and, when boiling hot, serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient list as printed is incomplete — carrots, onion, bay leaves and milk all appear in the method but only the water, bacon rind and seasoning are quantified. Treat the method as the reliable part and scale from the pint of water.

A Little History

Anything called Crécy in a French or Anglo-French kitchen means carrots. The name is generally traced to Crécy in Picardy, long associated with carrot growing, though the Seine-et-Marne Crécy also claims it and the attribution is traditional rather than documented. By the late nineteenth century potage Crécy was standard enough to appear in English household books without explanation. The bacon rind is the older, thriftier layer of the dish: before stock cubes, a scrap of cured pork was the ordinary way to put savour into a pan of water. The finishing milk suggests a domestic version — a restaurant kitchen might well have reached for cream or a veal stock instead.

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