How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Stuffed Cabbage

For this dish select a head of Savoy cabbage; the ordinary hard head cannot be stuffed. Put the whole head into a bowl and pour boiling water over it. Let it stand fifteen minutes, drain, cover again with boiling water, let it stand thirty minutes. While this is standing make the stuffing as follows:- Wash two heaping tablespoonfuls of rice in cold water, boil twenty minutes; then mix it with a half pound of sausage meat, one tablespoonful of onion juice, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a dash of pepper. Mix all well together, drain, and gently press the water from the cabbage, then open it carefully to the very centre. Put in about a half teaspoonful of this mixture, fold over two or three of the little leaves, cover these leaves with a layer of the mixture. Fold over this the next layer of leaves, and so continue until each layer is stuffed. When finished, press all firmly but gently together. Tie the head in a piece of cheese-cloth, put in a kettle of salted, boiling

For the Modern Kitchen

A whole stuffed Savoy, layer by layer, then boiled in a cloth — an older technique than the individual rolled cabbage parcels most cooks know. The original text breaks off mid-sentence, so the boiling time is missing.

A Little History

Stuffing a whole cabbage rather than rolling individual leaves is a long-established form of the dish in central and eastern Europe and in French provincial cooking, where it appears as chou farci — the head opened out, packed leaf by leaf, retied into its original shape and poached or braised. It appears in American cookbooks of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, where it would have stretched a small amount of sausage meat across a table. The insistence on Savoy is practical rather than snobbish: its loose, blistered leaves will open and refold without breaking, where a dense head will not. Onion juice, called for here instead of chopped onion, appears frequently in recipes from roughly the 1880s through the 1910s, where cooks wanted allium flavour without visible pieces.

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