How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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To Hull Corn

Put one pint of clear, hard wood ashes in two quarts of cold, soft water; boil fifteen minutes, stand aside until the water is perfectly clear, then drain it off carefully. Dip your finger in the water, rub it against your thumb, and if it feels slippery, add as much cold water as will cover two quarts of white corn. Return the corn and the lye to the porcelain kettle, boil gently until the hulls begin to start; then with a skimmer dip out the corn and throw it into a pan of clear, cold water. When you have it all out rub thoroughly with the hands to remove the hulls and also to cleanse the corn of the lye. It may be necessary to rub it through three or four fresh waters, but this washing must continue until the corn is perfectly free from the taste of lye. Then put it into clear water and boil until tender, about three or four hours. Drain, add a quarter of a pound of butter and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper. A half pint of cream may also be added, if liked. This corn having been soaked in an alkali to remove the hull, has, of course, lost a quantity of corn oil and therefore makes a good summer food.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is hominy — corn nixtamalized in homemade wood-ash lye. The finished dish is unremarkable, but the process as described cannot be reproduced safely in a modern kitchen, and the points below explain where it breaks down rather than how to rescue it.

A Little History

Hulled corn, hominy and lye corn are all names for the same ancient technique: soaking dried maize in an alkaline solution so the tough outer pericarp slips off and the kernel swells. The method is indigenous to Mesoamerica, where it is called nixtamalization from the Nahuatl nextli (ashes) and tamalli (dough), and it spread north through Native American agriculture long before European settlement. Colonial and nineteenth-century American households took it up, using the potash lye that any wood-burning kitchen produced as a byproduct; this recipe assumes its reader has a pint of clear hardwood ashes to hand. Twentieth-century nutrition later established what the practice had accomplished without knowing it: alkaline treatment releases niacin that is otherwise chemically bound in maize, and populations that ate untreated corn as a staple suffered pellagra while those that nixtamalized it did not.

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