How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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To Dry Corn (Remove the husks score down)

Remove the husks, score down the centre of each row of grains, then press out the pulp, leaving every particle of hull fast to the cob. Spread this pulp on tin sheets or in ordinary baking pans; dry in the hot sun or in a very moderate oven, watching carefully and stirring occasionally that the corn may not lose its color. If the oven is just right three hours should dry it. As soon as it is thoroughly dry take from the oven, and when cold put it into bags and hang in a cool, dry place.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a preserving method rather than a dish: sweet corn at the milk stage, pressed off the cob and dried down to a shelf-stable state. The hinge is dryness — corn that feels dry but is not will mould in the bag.

A Little History

Drying green corn is one of the oldest North American preserving methods, practised long before the arrival of Europeans and taken up by colonial and later farm households as a way to carry summer sweet corn through winter without a cellar or a canner. It belongs to the same broad family as Pennsylvania Dutch dried corn, the style commercialised in Lancaster County and still sold there, though that tradition is usually described as involving roasting or parching the ears first, which gives a toasty, caramelised flavour the plain oven-dried version lacks. Recipes like this one are common in late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century vegetable books because home drying was cheap, needed no equipment beyond baking pans and sunshine, and predated reliable home canning of low-acid vegetables -- which is why a cookbook of this vintage treats a bag of dried corn as ordinary pantry stock.

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