Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Grey Mullet

It is a sore point with the red mullets that an inferior race with whom they have no relations whatever should swim the sea, and be known to fame as grey mullets. Grey they may be, but mullets they are not. They are prepared for table as red mullets are, but have not the same distinction. As the glory of the red mullet is the liver, that of the grey is the roe, hard and soft, which is dried, salted and preserved on the Mediterranean coast in the form of a sausage, called botargo, much admired by topers for the thirst which it produces. So the fish, if it cannot create much appetite for itself, creates a great appetite for something else, and is useful in its generation.

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