Geneva
This town seems doomed to misrepresentation.
It gains credit which does not belong to it, and loses credit which it has nobly won. Because its name resembles that of juniper in Dutch-genever it is given by many people to gin, with which it has nothing to do. Because it resembles that of Genoa it is in danger of losing the credit of an excellent fish sauce which is all its own. Also because in this sauce there is red wine, some cooks using Bordeaux make a variation of it, which they call Sauce Genevese Sauce Bordelaise, and other cooks using Burgundy make another variation, which they call Sauce Bourguignonne. What between the names of Genoa, Bordeaux, and Burgundy, there has arisen a confusion, in the midst of which the claims of Geneva stand a good chance of being superseded. The sauce was invented at Geneva, for the especial behoof and benefit of the trout which populate the lake. The fame of Geneva for its trout is of old standing. "It is well known," said Izaak Walton, two centuries ago, "that in the Lake Leman-the Lake of Geneva-there are trouts taken of three cubits long (4) feet). And Mercator says the trouts that are taken in the Lake of Geneva are a great part of the merchandise of that famous city."
Genevese Sauce. - Take half a bottle of red wine (the Genevese generally stuck to Burgundy), a chopped onion, two chopped shalots, a clove of garlic crushed (they prefer two in the South), two cloves of spice and a faggot of sweet-herbs. Put them into a saucepan, and let them simmer till the onions are done. Then add a ladleful of Spanish or good brown sauce. Reduce all to the thickness of a cullis, skim it, and pass it through a tammy. Lastly, boil it up again, add a pinch of sugar and (partly for salt) a good lump of anchovy butter.
Variation First. There is a feebler way, which may be mentioned for the sake of economy, but it has the disadvantage of requiring the fish to be cooked first before beginning the sauce, and it is possible only when the fish has been cooked in a court bouillon of wine with flavouring herbs and spices. Take two ladlefuls of the court bouillon, add to it a ladleful of Spanish sauce, pass it through the tammy, add a pinch of sugar, and finish it with anchovy butter.
Variation Second is the so-called Bordelese Sauce, made. with Bordeaux wine, with no onion, nor sweet-herbs, nor anchovy butter, and not strained.
Glaze Variation Third. The Burgundian Sauce is not distinct enough to be noted.
GENOA has given its name to a cake, and runs a race with Naples in the production of Italian pastes. Is not that glory enough? What do the Genoese know of salmon and trout, that they should be credited with the sauce for which Geneva is famous?