Herring
Amsterdam is said to be built on herringbones; and the herring has certainly made the fortune of Holland. It is one of those productions, says Lacépède, which decide the destiny of empires. It is not much to look at, this little creature, but it is as the sea-sand for multitude, and the poets have discovered that they mean living men.
Ye may ca' them caller herring, Women ca' them lives o' men.
They cost men's lives, it is true; but it is also true that whole nations live by them. The Emperor Charles V. made a pilgrimage to the tomb of the Dutchman who is supposed to have invented pickled herrings. He was not really the creator of this commodity-but that is nothing; what is admirable is the hero-worship of a great Emperor bending his head and casting his crown before the tomb of a herring-salter. This is a case of hero-worship which Carlyle has curiously omitted. We have heard of the hero as king, as poet, as prophet; we have still to hear of him as a humble but most useful herring-pickler, adding to the wealth of the world and the happiness of his people by a Herring simple but far-reaching and wonder-working discovery in food. Io Triumphe! cries the Frenchman Lacépède "if it was a citizen of Biervliet who first originated the idea of salting and barrelling herrings, let us glory in the remembrance that it was a citizen of Dieppe who first taught the world how to smoke them." Herrings were salted and smoked long before the said citizens of Biervliet and Dieppe opened their eyes upon the fishing fleets; but all the same the hero-worship of the Republican Lacépède is as interesting and honourable as that of the Imperial Charles.
The most varied accounts are given as to the time when herrings are in season. A great authority, Grimod de la Reynière, announces to the Parisians in his calendar the arrival of the herring in November. There are English books which announce November as the very end of the season for the herring. The fact is that there is more than one kind of herring. The common kind comes to our shores in April or May, and spawns in the end of October or beginning of November, after which it is good for nothing. There is another kind, which Yarrell calls Leach's herring, which is heavy with roe in January and which does not spawn till the middle of February. In the Baltic there are three distinct species-a spring, a summer, and an autumn herring. Practically we have the herring in England all the year round save the spring months.
Fresh Herrings. - The best British herring by far is the Loch Fyne herring-and the most approved method of cooking it is that which is practised on the Clyde. A fresh herring is nearly always and everywhere broiled. The Clyde fashion is to broil or fry it as follows:- The heads, tails, and fins of a couple of herrings are clipped off. The fish when thoroughly cleaned are split open by the back and boned. They are then dusted with pepper and salt, Holland Sauce and enriched with a little butter. They are next placed one on the other, the skins being outside, and skewered or sewn together.
The English way is to broil each herring by itself, either splitting it and boning it, which is best, or leaving it entire. But in reference to any of these processes a question suggests itself. Do you, or do you not, eat the skin of the herring? If you do, there is no more to be said and no fault to be found. If you do not, then why give the pleasant taste of broiling or frying to the surface which is to be rejected? Arrange that the taste of the fire shall go upon the flesh of the herring and not upon the skin.
Salt Herrings. These on the Continent are generally eaten after the manner of the Dutch-raw. Cut off head, tail, and fins; remove also the backbone; soak them for a time in milk and water; dry them, cut them in pieces, and arrange them in a boat or deep dish, with slices of roasted onions and of raw apples; add oil and vinegar, and eat. Sometimes, however, in France, these herrings, after being soaked, are grilled and served on a purée of peas, French beans, or lentils.
Bloaters and Kippers. - There is only one way of doing these, and it is perfect-to grill them à la maître d'hôtel. But mark: the French remove the skin, and there ought to be a stringent law to this effect set up in all kitchens, and parlous punishment inflicted for its violation.
Red Herrings.- French way: Soak them for some time in milk, and having wiped them, place them in a marinade of oil, pepper, parsley, shalot, and mushrooms finely chopped. Breadcrumb them, grill them, and serve them with bread and butter.
HOLLAND SAUCE (Sauce Hollandaise)-another name for Dutch sauce.
Horseradish HORLY à la Horly-is a mode of describing fillets of anything, but generally of fish, fowl, and the whiter game, first marinaded for a couple of hours, then drained and dried, then dipped in batter and fried, then again drained and served with crisp parsley and a boatful of sauce. The chief Horlys are fillets of chicken and fillets of sole, and they are both done alike. The usual sauce to go with them is Tomato. For the marinade take either of the uncooked ones.
HORS D'ŒUVRE. - There was a time when these little articles demanded a good deal of attention. They are now of the smallest account; and are little more than the trifles-prawns, olives, radishes, anchovies-which keep the customer occupied in a restaurant while the dinner he has ordered is getting ready. The hot Hors d'œuvres-as the Bouchées, Rissoles and Croquettes are now classed among the entrées.