Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Olla Podrida

"This word-Olla-means at once a species of prepared food, and the earthenware utensil in which it is dressed The olla is only well made in Andalucia, and there alone in careful, well appointed houses: it is called a puchero in the rest of Spain, where it is but a poor affair .

It "The veritable olla is difficult to be made a tolerable one is never to be eaten out of Spain, since it requires many Spanish things to concoct it, and much care. may be made in one pot, but two are better. They must be of earthenware, like the French pot au feu. Put them on their separate stoves, with water. Place into No. 1 garbanzos which have been placed to soak over night. Add a good piece of beef, a chicken, a large piece of bacon; let it boil once and quickly ; then let it simmer : it requires four or five hours to be well done. Meanwhile place into No. 2, with water, whatever vegetables are to be had-lettuces, cabbage, a slice of gourd, carrots, beans, celery, endive, onions and garlic, with beef and long peppers. These must be previously well washed and cut, as if they were destined to make a salad; then add red sausages or chorizos, half a pig's face salted, which should have been soaked over night. When all is sufficiently boiled, strain off the water. Remember constantly to skim the scum off both saucepans. When all is ready, take a large dish, lay in the bottom the vegetables, the Omelet beef in the centre, flanked by the bacon, chicken, and pig's face. The sausages should be arranged around en couronne. Pour over some of the soup of No. 1, and serve hot." (Abridged from Ford's Handbook of Spain.) In spite of Ford's protest, there is nothing in this receipt which cannot be procured in London. The garbanzos are chick peas, which are to be procured at Francisco Figul's, 10, Woburn Buildings, Tavistock Square. But surely it is not to be said that the Spanish Olla depends on the garbanzos, and that no other peas will do. The Chorizos are also to be obtained at the same Spanish shop, which was of old recommended by Ford. In the absence of Chorizos use Frankfort sausages. As for the necessity of an earthen pot-that is a delusion, if the true use of earthenware is understood. See article Soup.

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