Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Onion

In England we give the name of onion to all the plants of the onion tribe. The leek is to us an onion, and so is garlic and the shalot. In old English the leek was the type, and garlic was but a gar-leek-a spear-headed leek. In the language of science, garlic is made the standard, and the onion is but a species of allium or garlic. It may be taken for granted that of all the flavouring substances used in cookery the onion is, after salt, the most valuable ; and cunningly concealed in a sauce, in a stew, or in a soup, it yields enjoyment even to those who would carefully put it from them if they saw it.

Onion Sauce. See the Soubise sauce, the Breton sauce, and the Sauce Robert.

Onion Soup in France is supposed to have the most amazing restorative virtue. The following is known as the Marquis de Cussy's favourite soup :-Peel twenty small onions, cut them in slices, and fry them of a good colour in a stewpan with fresh butter and a little sugar. Then moisten them with broth, and let them simmer for an hour. Towards the end of the process add crusts of bread; and when about to serve the soup, throw in a wineglassful of old brandy.

Fried Onions.-One word as to the French way of frying them, which results in something far more delicate than the strong-smelling, overpowering English dish of the same name. The onions ought to be fresh and juicy. Slice them crosswise, so as to produce rings. Shake these rings in flour till they are well covered. Then put them into a wire basket, and dip them in the frying-kettle of hot beef fat for five or six minutes. Drain them, sprinkle them with a little salt, and serve them.

Oxford

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