Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Orgeate

as its name shows, was formerly nothing but barley water. This was flavoured sometimes with lemon, sometimes with almonds. By degrees the almond flavour began to predominate, and almond milk was found to be so agreeable by itself that it displaced the barley altogether, Orgeate now is nothing but almond milk. The old drink, however, may still be obtained under the name of barley water.

ORTOLAN or GARDEN BUNTING. - Treat the ortolan as a quail or as a lark. It is useless to say more in a country where for the most part we have to eat the ortolan, like the becafico, in imagination. As much as a guinea apiece has been paid for ortolans in England. Fortunately in these days of the railway they can be obtained at a much less price; but the fat little monsters are still much too dear for any but long purses and rare occasions.

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