Relish
It has already been explained that this is what the French mean by a ragout. Strictly speaking, a relish and a garnish ought to be convertible terms: they are both accompaniments. In practice the name of Garnish is given to any one thing-generally to a vegetable, more or less plain, which is served with meat; and the name of Relish to a combination-as onions, mushrooms, truffles, cockscombs, quenelles, crayfish, oysters, and soft roes, which are worked into the attendant sauce. 1. Financial Relish. - Foremost among them stands the Relish of the Financiers, who have an article to themselves further back. Cockscombs and kernels, collops of sweetbread, quenelles, button mushrooms, and sliced truffles, separately prepared, and then boiled together for a moment in the Sauce of the Financiers. 2. Toulouse Relish. - The same as the foregoing, only tossed for a minute or two in Allemande sauce. It is white, whereas No. 1 is brown. 3. Turtle Relish. - Take sweetbreads in little collops, a few cockscombs, crayfish, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, discs of tongue or of ham, olives, green gherkins, truffles, with a large supply of mushrooms, and set them on the fire for a minute in a sauce made (equal parts) of Spanish and Tomato sauces.
Remoulade 4. Chipolata Relish a great favourite for poultry.
Chipolatas are small sausages, about two inches long, made of pork and bacon. Use instead of them either Frankfort sausages by themselves, or if ordinary pork sausages, add to them an equal number of little slices of bacon made into rolls. Cook these apart, and add to them equal quantities of carrots, turnips, mushrooms, and chestnuts nicely turned, and also cooked apart. Set them on the fire for a minute in Spanish sauce. 5. Poulette Relish used with chicken, from which it takes its name, but more frequently with calves' feet, sheep's trotters, and some kinds of fish notably eels. It consists of shalots and mushrooms passed in butter, and served with chopped parsley in a Poulette sauce. 6. Matelote Relish. - Small onions and mushrooms in a red-wine sauce, described under the name of Matelote. Crayfish and fried crusts of bread are prepared apart and added to the garnish in serving. 7. Relish of the Normandy Matelote. -A quantity of oysters; mussels and mushrooms, prepared in a whitewine sauce, to which the liquor of the mussels contributes. For more detail consult the article on Sole à la Normande. 8. Relish of Soft Roes. - Parboil in some boiling water mixed with salt and two tablespoonfuls of white-wine vinegar, the soft roes of mackerel, carp or herring; drain them on a napkin, and then toss them in some white sauce -Allemande or Suprême, to which may be added chopped parsley, nutmeg and lemon-juice.