Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Trout

The best are the salmon-trout, and they are to be cooked in any of the ways allowed for salmon. Some English cooks lay down a peremptory law that a trout is never to be boiled. This is a mistake. The char is a trout, and Francatelli has declared, with perfect justice, that it is the best of all fish for a waterzootje. The smaller trout, however, may well be fried or grilled. The larger ones on being boiled take kindly to a good court bouillon. Let it never be forgotten that the Genevese sauce was invented for the good of trout.

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