Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Yorkshire Pie

Yorkshire has won so much glory by reason of its pudding, that it has some claim to our attention when it offers us a pie. What is sold in the Italian warehouse under this name is but a galantine packed in terrines of different sizes. The true Yorkshire pie is made as follows, and is one of the most noble features of an English Christmas: -Bone a goose and a large fowl. Fill the latter with a stuffing made of minced ham or tongue, veal, suet, parsley, pepper, salt, and two eggs; or for a more highly-seasoned stuffing say-minced ham, veal, suet, onion, sweet-herbs, lemon-peel, mixed spices, cayenne, salt, worked into a paste with a couple of eggs. Sew up the fowl, truss it, and stew it for twenty minutes along with the goose in some good stock, and in a close stewpan. Put the fowl within the goose, and place the goose in a pie-mould which has been lined with good hot-water paste. Let the goose repose on a cushion of stuffing, and in the midst of the liquor in which he has been stewed. Surround him in the pie with slices of parboiled tongue and pieces of pigeon, partridge, or hare. Fill the vacancies with more stuffing; put on a good layer of butter; roof it with paste; bake it for three hours; and consume it either hot or cold. These pies are sometimes made of enormous size, containing every variety of poultry and game, one within another and side by side. A Christmas pie of this kind, going from Sheffied in 1832 as a tribute to the then Yorkshire Pudding Lord Chancellor Brougham, broke down by reason of its weight.

This pie reminds one of what Alexandre Dumas regarded as his culinary triumph-the Monte Christo anchovy. Put the anchovy into an olive, the olive into a lark, the lark into a quail, the quail into a pheasant, the pheasant into a turkey, the turkey into a sucking-pig. Roast it for three hours. Then peel off layer after layer, throwing all out of the window, -save the anchovy, for which everything is to be sacrificed.

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