Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Yorkshire Pudding

Of all the English counties Yorkshire has contrived, with the rare spirit of adventure and mother-wit which belongs to the Yorkshireman in all his dealings, to take the foremost place for cookery in the estimation of the world. It may be that this is the result more of accident than of taste. It is difficult to believe in the taste of a province which eats mustard with apple pie ; still the culinary reputation of the shire is a fact. The Yorkshire ham is rivalled by the Cheshire cheese in renown. All over Europe the Shesterre is known as well as the jambon d'Yorck. But these are not properly the achievements of the kitchen. Wherever the roast beef of Old England is heard of, there the Yorkshire pudding is known; and nothing like this can be said of any other English county.

Take an equal number of eggs and of large tablespoonfuls of flour. Whisk the eggs well, mix them gradually with the flour, add salt with a trifle of nutmeg, and pour in as much new milk as will reduce the batter to the consistence of cream. Work, the batter vigorously for ten minutes, to make it light, and then at once pour it into a baking-tin, which must be very hot, with two ounces of dripping in it. Set the pudding to bake before the fire under the roast meat for about half an hour before it is taken up; and when it is ready, cut it into squares and Zest send it to table on a dish by itself. This is the true Yorkshire method-the pudding being only half an inch thick, and not turned in the baking. But in most other counties the plan is to make the pudding an inch thick, and either to turn it on the baking-tin or to turn it out of one baking-tin on to another, in order to brown it on both sides. If the meat is not roasted but baked, the pudding may still be placed under it, the meat resting upon a tripod in the middle of the baking-tin.

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