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The Pots, Pans, and Containers
WE business women go at our housekeeping quite differently from other women, partly because of the system business life has instilled into us and partly from necessity. We know that our housekeeping is going to receive a minimum of time and attention, so that we must arrange to eliminate as many of its details as possible and let the rest almost automatically take care of themselves. This requires tools to fit the task and those that will do the work with the least trouble.
One of my hardest workers is an aluminum four-piece set which does duty as a roaster, large kettle, steamer, colander, and vegetable cooker. This, with a small aluminum double boiler, is a treasure since I have found it possible to procure the steel wool and soap combination cleaner, now put up by several firms, to keep aluminum in good condition. Steel wool - aptly called the "shearings of a hydraulic ram" — applied with just a little "elbow grease" every few weeks keeps the aluminum utensils bright and shiny. It is the alkali of hard water which discolors them by attacking the surface of the aluminum, so by avoiding the use of extra alkali or soda in washing I avoid unnecessary work.
The hardest worker of all is a small double boiler; the upper part is used in preparing half-a-can recipes or in cooking about a pint of food material either directly over the flame or in simmering it over the lower water-filled boiler. The lower boiler is used in the cooking of larger amounts of food directly over the flame. This The Pots, Pans, and Containers utensil serves not only in its capacity as a double boiler but as a teakettle for boiling water for tea or coffee. The aluminum pans cost more than some others - the four-piece set costing over three dollars and the double boiler eighty-five cents - but a business woman counts so much of her time as money that her home hours become precious.
So for her, if not for all, it is economy in the long run to buy utensils that both do good work and require the least time and care later.
A PRESSURE COOKER AS A TIME SAVER The waffle iron has its regular Sunday breakfast to prepare, while my best playfellow, a steam pressure cooker, does double duty. It plays its part as a steam canner when a basket of peaches or corn has been sent in from the country by friends, as well as to cook combination meals in doublequick time. It is a large cast aluminum kettle with its cover fastened down to retain the steam by means of copper bolts which develop muscle and sometimes temper in the unscrewing when the table and guests are waiting - but then what good friend has not his drawbacks.
The pressure cooker's greatest asset to the kitchenette dinner party, besides cutting the cooking time in two or three, is that the odors of the cooking are all retained in the kettle and released to the great out-of-doors instead of in the room itself - by setting the cooker on the sill of an opened window before turning the exhaust valve to release the pressure prior to removing the cover. A ball-and-spring safety valve eliminates all possible troubles from too high pressure, for when thirty pounds of steam pressure is reached, as shown on the dial, a whistle blows which not only lets off the extra steam The Pots, Pans, and Containers but gives warning to the cook lady to turn down her gas flame.
GLASS JARS FOR DRY GROCERIES Glass jars with wide mouths and rubber rings around the top to exclude air and break the click of glass in closing come in various sizes. Pint and quart sizes at fifteen and twenty cents apiece best fit the need of a kitchenette. This is a purchase to be made but once, and once these jars are used you will never part with them, or be out of the food material needed through having forgotten that "the powdered sugar was all used up last time."
The little two-cup percolator, which in the first few weeks of its stay was as good as an alarm clock piping out "Get up and see your percolator perk", has had a tragic career. It had a dreadful accident. Somebody set it on the stove with coffee in the top but no water below, and it lost both its spout and handle, was badly burned, and had to spend four weeks in its manufacturer's hospital for injured goods. However, you would never know it now as it sings its cheery morning song.
THE UTENSILS AT WORK AND PLAY In order to prove the advantage of having utensils and food containers, work table and stove so close together, let us make a Baker sunshine cake. Bringing down the small-tube cake tin, size Number 5, from the top shelf, we can stand in front of the work table, reach down into the ice box for our two eggs, reach to the right without a step for the flour sieve, egg whip, measuring cups, flour pan, and the long-handled saucepan with a rounded bottom which does duty as a mixing bowl.
Baking powder from the shelf above is measured with the measuring spoon which The Pots, Pans, and Containers hangs in front of us and is added to the sifted and measured flour, sifted again once or twice, and set aside while the sugar is measured and sifted once. The eggs are separated, and the yolks dropped into a third of a cupful of cold water which has been placed in the mixing bowl.
The whites of the eggs are beaten up with the egg whip until the platter can be inverted without the mass moving.
The yolks and the water are beaten up with the Dover egg beater for five or six minutes until light and foamy. The sugar, then the sifted flour and baking powder, are added gradually, continuing the beating with the beater. The flavoring is added now, and the whites of the eggs carefully folded, not stirred or beaten, into the mixture. It is a very foamy mass as it is poured into the pan, half filling it, as a sunshine or sponge cake should rise as high again while in the oven. We may put this into a cold oven - that is, light the oven gas just as we put the cake into the oven and let it gradually get hot. A cake without shortening needs to rise and bake slowly so as not to be tough.
We must look at our cake frequently to see that the heat is right for the cake to rise but not to brown during the first fifteen minutes. It should take from forty to forty-five minutes for the entire baking.
If the oven gets too hot turn down the flame or turn out one of the burners. It is done and ready to come out when the edge begins to shrink away from the side of the pan, and it stops its funny little sizzling sound of baking. It should come out of the oven at once and be turned upside down to "hang" for a time before it is removed from the pan on to a wire rack to air, cool, and to be frosted.
In three minutes we can have all the The Pots, Pans, and Containers soiled dishes washed up, for as we have finished with egg beater, cup, or pan we have set it under the cold-water faucet to soak in cold water.
It has taken just twenty minutes to put the cake into the oven and five more to leave the same order we found. Cake making as simple as this becomes a pleasant diversion with the added zest of serving real homemade cake to friends who drop in later.
Simplified kitchens give greater satisfaction in return for the time spent in their planning than almost anything else, since to most women cooking is either a distinct pleasure or a dreadful cross.
Baker Sunshine Cake 1 cupful sugar 1 teaspoonful baking 1 cupful flour powder 1/3 cupful cold water teaspoonful vanilla 2 eggs extract 1 teaspoonful salt White Mountain Icing 1 cupful sugar 1 egg white cupful boiling water teaspoonful vanilla Cook the sugar and water together until it forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water. Add the flavoring and pour slowly into the stiffly beaten white of egg, beating while pouring it in. Beat until it begins to thicken and spread at once on the cake.
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The chapter is an essay on outfitting an apartment kitchenette, but it ends with a working recipe: a Baker sunshine cake with White Mountain icing. Several fractions have dropped out of the ingredient list in this printing, so read the method carefully before you start.
- The hinge: fold, do not stirThis is a fatless sponge, leavened almost entirely by the beaten whites and the aerated yolk-and-water foam. Fold the whites in with a spatula in a few large strokes; beating them in collapses the batter and gives a tough, low cake.
- Missing fractionsSome numerators have dropped out of this printing. From the method, the water is a third of a cup; the vanilla is printed without its numeral and was probably a teaspoon or half a teaspoon. The salt is printed as a full teaspoon, which is high for a one-cup cake, but the intended figure cannot be recovered from the text. For the icing, boiled frostings of the period commonly used about a third of a cup of water to a cup of sugar.
- Cold-oven startLighting the oven as the cake goes in is a gas-range technique that gave a slow rise and no early crust. The book names no temperature. A modern oven cannot be started cold to the same effect; a slow setting of around 325F for the forty to forty-five minutes the recipe allows is the nearest approximation, with the cake staying pale for the first fifteen minutes.
- Pan size'Small-tube cake tin, size Number 5' was a manufacturer's size code; the diameter is not recoverable, but a batter of one cup of flour and two eggs suits a small tube pan. Do not grease it: the batter climbs the sides, and a greased pan gives you a squat cake.
- Hanging the cakeInverting the pan while the cake cools keeps the open crumb from compressing under its own weight. Rest the tube on a bottle neck or set the pan upside down on three cans, and leave it until completely cold.
- Dover egg beaterA hand-crank rotary beater. Five or six minutes of it on the yolks and water is a thick, pale, tripled foam; a stand mixer on medium-high gets there in three to four.
- Soft-ball stageFor the icing, that is 238F on a thermometer. Pour the syrup into the whites in a thin steady stream with the beater running, and spread the icing while it is still glossy and just beginning to set.
- Uncooked egg white in the icingThe hot syrup heats but does not reliably pasteurize the white. If serving anyone vulnerable, use pasteurized whites.
- Ignore the canning asideThe author uses her pressure cooker as a "steam canner" for corn on the strength of a whistle at 30 pounds. Home canning of low-acid vegetables needs a tested process time at a verified pressure; follow a current guide, not this chapter.
- YieldOne small tube cake, eight modest slices. It stales fast, as fatless sponges do; eat it the day it is made.
Sunshine cake belongs to the family of American fatless sponges that flourished once fine flour, cheap sugar and reliable rotary egg beaters put whipped-egg cakes within reach of an ordinary household: angel food used whites only, sunshine used the whole egg with the yolks whipped separately over water, and both were baked in the tall ungreased tube pan that let the batter climb. "White Mountain" was a common American name in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries for a boiled icing of hot sugar syrup beaten into egg white, and appears under that name in a number of general cookbooks of the period. What makes this version worth reading is its setting. Kitchenette cookery was written for salaried women living in the small apartments that spread through American cities in the 1910s and 1920s, where the whole kitchen might be a cupboard with a two-burner gas plate. The prices quoted, three dollars for a four-piece aluminum set and eighty-five cents for a double boiler, and the enthusiasm for aluminum itself, then still a relatively new consumer metal, date the book firmly; so does the assumption that the oven will be lit fresh for each bake and watched by eye rather than set by a dial.