Lowney's Cook Book

The chocolate house's complete cookbook, c.1907 — from the value of food to the body through chafing-dish delicacies.

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Oyster Bisque à la Reine

salt, paprika, cayenne cup cracker crumbs 1 cup finely chopped chicken meat parsley dash nutmeg Cook oysters in their own liquor until edges shrivel. Drain; reserve liquor; chop oysters. Melt butter; add cracker crumbs and milk. Cook five minutes; add seasonings; combine mixtures; strain thoroughly. Add beaten egg and chicken meat. 1 quart shrimps 2 tablespoons onion 3 tablespoons butter 2 cups white stock Bisque of Shrimps, Bretonne 1 tablespoon carrot 2 tablespoons celery 4 cup chopped mushrooms salt and cayenne 1 cup white wine Cook shrimps and vegetables in butter; add seasonings, white stock, and boil five minutes. Press through a sieve. Add wine and serve immediately.

By adding one cup of cream and two tablespoons of butter a much richer and smoother soup may be made.

For the Modern Kitchen

The page as printed runs two bisques together and has lost several quantities to the scanner, so treat it as a method rather than a formula. Both soups are built the same way: cook the shellfish briefly, thicken with crumbs, sieve, enrich at the end.

A Little History

Lowney's Cook Book was published in 1907 by Maria Willett Howard for the Walter M. Lowney Company, a Boston chocolate manufacturer, and alongside its promotional chocolate chapters it carries a full general repertoire — including a soup section stocked with the French-service dishes then expected at any ambitious American table. Bisque in this period generally meant a shellfish soup thickened not with flour but with pounded crumbs or rice, sieved smooth, and finished with cream. The suffix à la reine is standard nineteenth-century menu shorthand for a dish containing white chicken meat, which is why a soup built on oysters arrives carrying a cup of chopped chicken; Bretonne is more loosely applied, generally attached to preparations involving a base of finely cut aromatic vegetables. Oysters were cheap and abundant on the Atlantic coast in 1907.

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