Lowney's Cook Book

The chocolate house's complete cookbook, c.1907 — from the value of food to the body through chafing-dish delicacies.

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Sweet Pickled Watermelon

4 tablespoons cinnamon sticks 4 tablespoons cloves (whole) watermelon Cut skin from watermelon; cut rind into small pieces about two inches square; cover with water and cook until tender. Boil sugar and vinegar ten minutes; add spices tied in a bag, simmer until syrupy, about two hours; add melon and simmer one hour. Fill jars and seal.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a canning recipe with the two ingredients that determine its safety left out entirely. The problems are structural rather than a matter of updating technique.

A Little History

Sweet pickled watermelon rind is a thrift dish often traced to the American South and said to have spread north through nineteenth-century cookbooks: the flesh was eaten in season, and the thick white inner rind, otherwise waste, was blanched tender and candied in a spiced vinegar syrup to be eaten with cold meat in winter. The cinnamon-and-clove syrup here is the standard sweet-pickle treatment applied across the period to peaches, pears, crabapples and cantaloupe alike, and the spice bag keeps the syrup clear and allows the whole spices to be lifted out. Its appearance in Lowney's, a book published by a chocolate manufacturer and stocked with confectionery, is a reminder that these company cookbooks aimed to be complete household manuals rather than single-subject collections — and the vanished sugar and vinegar amounts show how much such books still assumed a cook already knew.

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