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Cookery (It was the intention in our)
It was the intention in our article on Cookery to divide it into two parts, separating fine from plain, every-day receipts; but this was found impracticable, no two judgments agreeing upon the proper division, hence our abandonment of the plan, and leaving to each reader his or her own judgment.
To make a Savory Dish of Veal. over clear, lively coals, pouring the red gravy into a bowl each time they are turned; five minutes on the gridiron will do. Take them up, cut them in pieces, put them into a pan with the gravy you have saved, a large lump of butter, with pepper, salt, a pinch of flour, glass of Madeira (champagne is better), fry the whole for two minutes, and serve very hot.
Breast of Veal, glacee.
Cut your breast as square as possible; bone it and draw the cut pieces together with a thread; put it into a pan with a ladle of veal bouillon, cover it with slices of salt pork and a buttered paper, previously adding 2 carrots in bits, 4 onions in slices, 2 bay leaves, 2 cloves, pepper and salt; put some coals on the lid as well as below; when two-thirds done take out the vegetables, reduce your gravy to jelly, turn your meat, and set on the cover till done; it takes in all two hours and a half over a gentle fire.
Shoulder en Galantine. ragged pieces to make your stuffing, viz., 1 pound Bone a fat, fleshy shoulder of veal, cut off the of veal to 1 pound of salt pork minced extremely fine, well seasoned with salt, pepper, spices, and mixed with 3 eggs, spread a layer of this stuffing well minced over the whole shoulder to the depth of an inch; over this mushrooms, slips of bacon, slices of tongue, and carrots in threads, cover this with stuffing as before, then another layer of mushrooms, bacon, tongue, etc., when all your stuffing is used, roll up your shoulder lengthways, tie it with a thread, cover it with slips of lardine and tie it up in a clean white cloth; put into a pot the bones of the shoulder, 2 calves'-feet, slips of bacon, 6 carrots, 10 onions, 1 stuck with 4 cloves, 4 bay leaves, thyme, and a large bunch of parsley and shallots, moisten the whole with bouillon; put in your meat in the cloth and boil steadily for three hours. Try if it is done with the larding needle; if so, take it up, press all the liquor from it and set it by to grow cold; pass your jelly through a napkin, put 2 eggs in a pan, whip them well and pour the strained liquor on them, mixing both together, add peppercorns, a little of the 4 spices, a bay leaf, thyme, parsley; let all boil gently for half an hour, strain it through a napkin, put your shoulder on its dish, pour the jelly over it and serve cold.
Shoulder of Mutton.
Bone the larger half of your shoulder, lard the inside with well seasoned larding, tie it up in the shape of a balloon, lay some slips of bacon in your pan, on them your meat, with 3 or 4 carrots, 5 onions, 3 cloves, 2 bay leaves, thyme, and the bones that have been taken out moisten with bouillon, set all on the fire and simmer for three hours Sheep's Tongues.
Cut some large scallops from a leg of veal, and a half; garnish with small onions. spread them on a dresser, dip them in rich egg batter; season them with cloves, mace, nutmeg, and pepper beaten fine: make force-meat with some of the veal, some beef suet, oysters chopped, sweet herbs shred fine; strew all these over the collops, roll and tie them up, put them on skewers and roast them. To the rest of the force-meat add two raw eggs, roll them in balls and fry them.
Put them into the dish with the meat when roasted; and make the sauce with strong broth, an anchovy or a shallot, a little white wine and Fifteen tongues are sufficient for a dish: wash and clean them well, throw them into hot water for twenty minutes, wash them again in cold water, drain, dry and trim them neatly, lard them with seasoned larding and the small needle; lay in your pan slips of bacon, 4 carrots in pieces, 4 onions, 1 stuck with 2 cloves, slips of veal, 2 bay leaves, thyme, and a faggot of shallots and parsley; put your tongues in, cover them with
This page is a run of French-influenced veal and mutton preparations, printed here with the text scrambled — the editor's note, a savory veal dish, and the collops recipe have all collided with each other. Read it as a group of related braises rather than a single set of instructions.
- The text is out of orderThe "Savory Dish of Veal" opens mid-sentence (its start is missing, and it was clearly a grilled-then-panned dish). The paragraph beginning "Cut some large scallops from a leg of veal" belongs to a separate collops recipe that has been dropped into the middle of "Sheep's Tongues," and both the mutton shoulder and the tongues break off unfinished. Treat each as a sketch to be reconstructed, not followed line by line.
- Coals above and below"Put some coals on the lid as well as below" describes a Dutch oven on a hearth — heat from both directions with no direct flame. A heavy lidded casserole in a moderate oven approximates it for the breast of veal, though the recipe specifies only a gentle fire; the mutton shoulder is simply set on the fire and simmered.
- BouillonNot stock cubes: an unsalted, lightly gelatinous broth from veal bones and aromatics. Low-sodium veal or chicken stock is the closest substitute, and salt should go in at the end, since these braises are reduced hard.
- Larding and lardine"Lardine" and "slips of bacon" are strips of pork back fat (lardons), threaded through lean meat with a larding needle or laid over it as a barding layer. Modern pork is much leaner; unsmoked fatback or the fat cap from pork belly works, and streaky bacon will add smoke the original did not intend.
- The four spices"A little of the 4 spices" is quatre épices — commonly pepper, nutmeg, clove and ginger or cinnamon, ground together. It appears here in the galantine jelly; the forcemeat is seasoned only with unspecified "spices".
- Calves' feet do the settingThe galantine's jelly depends entirely on the two calves' feet and the shoulder bones. Without them the strained liquor will not set. Pig's trotters are the usual stand-in; powdered gelatine will clarify differently and gives a slacker mouthfeel.
- Clarifying with eggWhipped egg poured into the strained liquor and simmered half an hour forms a raft that traps sediment. The liquid must never boil hard or the raft breaks up. Strain through a doubled, rinsed cloth rather than a napkin.
- A glass of MadeiraPeriod usage puts a wine glass at roughly 2 fl oz, so about a quarter cup for the veal pan sauce. The instruction to fry the whole for two minutes is right — this is a quick emulsified pan gravy, not a reduction.
- Quantities and yieldFifteen sheep's tongues, a whole boned shoulder of veal rolled with two pounds of forcemeat, a breast of veal — these are dishes for a table of ten or more. The galantine in particular wants a day: three hours' boiling, then pressing and chilling overnight before the jelly goes over it.
- Salt porkNineteenth-century salt pork was heavily cured, and blanching before use was often advised. Modern salt pork is milder; taste the forcemeat mixture cooked off in a small patty before committing two pounds of it to the roll.
Mackenzie's collection is a compendium rather than an authored cookbook — receipts gathered from earlier printed sources, trade manuals and household books, which is why the editorial note about abandoning the split between "fine" and "plain" cookery sits directly on top of the veal. These pages fall squarely on the French side of that split. Galantine — a boned, stuffed, rolled joint poached in aromatic broth and served cold in its own clarified jelly — is a professional garde-manger preparation of French origin, carried into English-language books through translated and adapted texts. The reliance on calves' feet for setting power, on larding needles, and on quatre épices all point to a source written for cooks with a hearth, a larding kit and time, not for a family supper.